an extensive kingdom, situated in the eastern part of interior Africa. With the exception of Houssa, now subject to the sultan of the Fellatahs, it is superior in power and influence to any other state in that quarter of the continent. Major Denham, to whom we are indebted for the only full and authentic description of this country, places it between the 12th and 18th degrees of east longitude, and the 10th and 15th of north latitude, which would form an extent of nearly 400 miles in every direction. His own map and description, however, obliges us to restrict these dimensions to little more than one half. Bornou is bounded on the west by Soudan or Houssa, on the east by the lake Tchad, on the north by the Great Desert, on the south by the kingdoms of Begherme, Loggun, and Mandara.

The grandest natural feature of this country consists in the lake called the Tchad, one of the largest expanses of fresh water in the world, and well entitled to the appellation of an inland sea. Its limits have not been very precisely ascertained, but cannot fall much short of 200 miles in length and 150 in breadth. A remarkable variation, however, takes place, according as the rivers by which it is fed are swelled by the tropical rains, or their channels reduced by the continuance of the dry season. At this period the waters on every side recede, and leave uncovered a tract of many miles in extent, to be again overflowed when the rains have swelled the lake. The inhabitants, however, derive little advantage from the short and precarious interval during which they have access to this portion of their territory. There is neither leisure nor opportunity to bring it under regular culture; and the luxuriant fertility derived from the inundation is wasted in producing a rank vegetable growth of grass from ten to twelve feet in height, with impenetrable thickets of trees and underwood. Man scarcely dares to penetrate into these gloomy regions, which are filled by numerous and formidable wild animals, elephants, lions, hyenas, and enormous broods of the serpent species. These creatures, when the inundation comes on, seek refuge in the cultivated and inhabited tracts, where their arrival diffuses consternation and dismay.

The rivers by which this great expanse of water is fed are the Yeou and the Shary. The former, which enters it from the west, excited great interest on its first discovery, from being considered, or at least suspected, to be a continuation of the Niger of Park. Further observation has completely disproved this supposition, and shown it to be a river of only secondary magnitude. Rising in a range of hills to the south of Houssa, it flows first north, then eastward through Bornou, till it falls into the Tchad; but it never, unless when swollen by the rains, presents any great body of water. The Shary is a more considerable stream, although its origin and early course are known only by conjecture. After flowing from the south for about forty miles, through the kingdom of Loggun, it enters at the south-eastern extremity of Bornou into the great common receptacle, where it forms a noble stream, half a mile broad, and flows with considerable rapidity.

The territory of Bornou, extending along the whole western and part of the southern and northern shores of the great lake, is generally level and fertile. The climate, especially from March to the end of June, is oppressively hot, rising sometimes to 105 and 107°, and even during most of the night not falling much below 100°. In May the wet season commences, with violent storms of thunder and lightning. In the end of June the rivers and lakes begin to overflow, and for several months the rains are almost incessant, accompanied with damp, cloudy, and sultry weather. The inhabitants at this season are severely afflicted with fever and ague, which carry off great numbers of them. In October the rains abate; cool, fresh winds blow from the west and north-west; and for several months the climate is both healthful and agreeable.

No mention is found of Bornou among the geographers of antiquity, although it may be conjectured that the great lake of Nigritia, placed by Ptolemy in the centre of Africa, was perhaps the Tchad. Edrisi, however, in the twelfth century, describes this country under the appellation of Kuku, which is still borne by its capital. He represents the king as absolute and powerful, with a numerous army and many attendants; the people as martial, though rude; and the merchants as carrying on an active trade and possessing great wealth. Leo, who visited it about two centuries after, gives a description nearly similar. The people are represented as Pagans, and extremely rude, though numerous, and the country well cultivated. The merchants from Barbary supplied the king in his expeditions with arms and horses, while he made an annual expedition to procure slaves to be given in payment.

No further relations respecting Bornou were communicated to Europe during a very long period; yet it is remarkable that, in the maps of Sanson, Delisle, and others of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, there is found a lake of Bornou, and in some of them a large lake with the name of Guardia, which does not sound very dissimilar to that of Tchad. It is difficult to conjecture the ground upon which these features were delineated; yet their coincidence with those recently discovered seems to show that they were founded upon some information with which we are now unacquainted. D'Anville, however, proceeding upon his rigid principle of admitting no object for which he could not find a positive authority, expunged these names from his map, and has been generally followed by modern geographers.

When the African Association in 1788 commenced their operations, they early received some information, collected by Mr Lucas at Tripoli, with other particulars related by Ben Ali, a Moorish merchant resident in London. From these sources were derived pretty copious notices, both concerning Bornou and Cassina; the former being described as what it then appears to have been, decidedly the ruling power in the interior of Eastern Africa, all the kingdoms of which it had reduced into a state of vassalage. In arranging these accounts, however, a considerable error was committed as to the position of this country. Mr Lucas had been informed that it was fifty journeys, or about six hundred and fifty miles, south from Fezzan; but his informant added that it was only twenty-five journeys west from the Nile. To meet this statement Major Rennell conceived it necessary to extend the route, not due south as it really was, but south-east, so as to place it in the heart of the desert, seven degrees north and eight degrees east of its real position. Kuku, likewise believed, from the statement of Edrisi, to be a separate kingdom, was placed in the same quarter, still nearer to the Nile; and thus the desert tract to the west of Nubia was filled with countries which, in that quarter, have no existence.

The expedition sent out by the British government in 1822, under Denham and Clapperton, completely adjusted the geography of this part of the continent. It was discovered that Bornou, instead of being so far removed, as our maps represented, from Houssa and Cassina, was close on their eastern frontier, and formed a continuation of that extensive, fruitful, and finely watered plain, which extends from the mouth of the Senegal across Central Africa. Its relative political circumstances had also undergone, during this interval, a very complete change. Instead of holding all the surrounding states in vassalage, it had been itself completely subjected to the dominion of the Fellatahs, who, after subjugating all Houssa, had invaded Bornou, and committed the most dreadful ravages, destroying its capital and other large cities, and bringing the whole country into a state of entire bondage. There was still, however, among the people a strong spirit of valour and independence. A mere private individual, in the northern province of Kanem, pretending to, and perhaps himself trusting in, a celestial mission, hoisted the green flag of the Prophet, and, under the title of the servant of God, undertook a series of struggles for the deliverance of his country. The Fellatahs appear to have been taken very much by surprise, and, being defeated in successive encounters, were in ten months driven completely out of Bornou. They seem to have now given up all attempts at reconquering it, although a hostile spirit still reigns between the two countries.

The conqueror, called, from his native province, El Kanem, having the army wholly devoted to him, might probably have with little difficulty assumed the sovereign power. More moderate, and perhaps more prudent, he drew forth the nearest heir of the ancient sultans, and invested him with all the appearance and pomp of sovereignty; reserving only for himself, under the title of sheik, all its reality. The court of the sultan was established at New Bornou, which was made the capital, instead of the old city, which had been entirely destroyed during the Fellatha invasion; while the sheik, in military state, resides at the city of Kuku or Kouka.

The Bornouese throne in former times had been elective, at least among the members of the same family; and Bornou, the nobles possessed this and other high privileges; but at present the scheik possesses a power nearly absolute, which he exercises with salutary vigour. Bands of robbers who desolated the country have been nearly extirpated, and travelling and property rendered secure, at least in the interior. Justice within each city is administered, as in other Mussulman countries, by the cadi, with an appeal to the scheik. Murder is punished, on conviction, by delivering the offender to the relatives of the deceased, who dispatch him with clubs. A young thief is buried in the ground up to the head, which being covered with butter and honey, is exposed under the burning sun to the attack of innumerable flies and mosquitoes. Insolvent debtors are rather hardly dealt with. But the scheik's zeal was peculiarly directed against moral offences, of which conscience and public opinion have been generally considered as the most appropriate guardians. Such were the non-observance of the Mahommadan fasts, upon which severe and relentless penalties were levied. He was also most strict in punishing those failings in the female sex which are elsewhere considered as sufficiently visited by disgrace and exclusion from society. Here not only the most ignominious punishments, but often death itself, awaited them. On one occasion sixty of these unfortunate offenders were brought before him, of whom five were hanged, and four whipt so severely that two afterwards expired; an outrageous virtue, which seems with reason to have been branded as almost diabolical. The most frivolous female offences, as talking too loud, and walking in the street with the face unveiled, were considered as ground of public indictment at this severe bar.

Even the spending in courtship or otherwise a larger sum than a man was supposed to be able to afford, gave ground for dragging him before the national tribunal. Major Denham saw one thrown into prison for presenting to his bride two robes or turkadoes, when his station was considered as not authorizing more than one; although he proved that the lady had refused her consent on any other terms; which, however, drew upon her also a severe animadversion.

The sultan of Bornou is surrounded by a mounted body-guard, who likewise compose his principal nobles and chiefs. Their attire and equipment is the most grotesque and unwieldy, perhaps, to which fashion in any country has given rise. It is indispensable to the chief of rank that he should possess a huge belly, the singular importance attached to which is probably founded on the idea of its being an indication of plenty and luxury; and it is held so essential, that even when high feeding cannot produce the effect, stuffing is employed to give the appearance of it. Again, even in this burning climate, the body is enveloped in successive robes, amounting often to ten or twelve, the number being always considered as indicating the rank of the wearer. The head likewise is inclosed in numerous successive turbans, which are supposed to be rendered more ornamental by leaving only one side of the face uncovered. The sultan studies to be still more protuberant and more loaded with clothing than any of his courtiers. Yet in this attire he and they advance together into the field; but of course they can have no real efficiency in the duties of active warfare. The last sultan had fallen in consequence of the impossibility, caused by his ponderous equipment, of flying with sufficient speed before a victorious enemy.

The military force of Bornou consists almost entirely in cavalry, amounting to about 30,000, who are mounted on small but active steeds, which, as well as their riders, being cased in iron mail, present a very formidable appearance. They also manage their horses with the utmost skill, and perform all the manoeuvres of the field most rapidly and dexterously. Their only defect is, that when placed in the field against an enemy at all formidable, they can by no impulse be induced to fight. They look on as spectators till the contest issues in victory, when they engage eagerly in pursuit and plunder, in both of which they excel; whilst, in case of defeat, they take to flight with the utmost rapidity. As, however, the cavalry of the armies with which they contend are nearly on a level in point of prowess with themselves, the match is tolerably equal. There are usually on each side about a hundred chiefs, raised to distinction by bodily strength and prowess, who engage in single combats, and display often the most desperate valour. Barca Gana, the scheik's general, had obtained the reputation of possessing charms that rendered him invulnerable. The main dependence of that prince is upon a body of 9000 spearmen from his native territory of Kanem, who rally round him with the most enthusiastic attachment. Though almost naked, and equipped only with shield and spear, they display a discipline beyond that of almost any other African army. They march by tribes, and keep in front of their line a regular chain of piquets, with sentinels, who every half hour pass the war-cry along it; precautions very rarely employed in barbarian armies. All the sovereigns of Central Africa likewise consider themselves fortunate if they can engage the services of even a small party of Arab caravan followers, who, being brave and armed with muskets, an instrument yet almost unknown in this region, are objects of something like supernatural dread.

The territory of Bornou is fertile and well watered, yielding large crops even under very imperfect cultivation. The labour is chiefly performed by female slaves, who, at the commencement of the rainy season, scratch rather than turn the ground, and scatter rather than sow the seed. They are also obliged to watch the growth, in order to guard against numerous animal depredators; a very perilous occupation, in the course of which they are liable to be carried off by the wild beasts, who are roaming about in every direction. The rice and wheat are inferior, and grown in small quantity. The grain which forms the staple food of the people is a species of millet called gussuh, which they form, not into bread, an article here entirely unknown, but into a species of paste, that, by the addition of butter and honey, forms the highest boast of Bornou cookery. Cotton and indigo are also valuable productions, affording the material for the cloths finely dyed with blue stripes, which form the staple fabric of the country. All the domestic animals are reared, and very numerous herds of oxen are possessed, chiefly by an Arab tribe called Shouas. Major Denham reckons 20,000 on the shores of the Tchad, and double that number on the banks of the Shary. The empire, however, is remarkably destitute of the products of horticulture. There is neither a fruit nor a vegetable, except some onions in the vicinity of the large towns, and a very few limes and figs reared with great difficulty in the garden of the scheik.

The wild animals are very numerous, finding both food and cover in the extensive woody and marshy districts. Lions prowl about in considerable numbers, approaching even the walls of the towns. The Bornouese delight in taming and even making a pet of this noble animal. The scheik, as a special favour, sent Major Denham a present of a young lion, which he very prudently returned, lamenting the want of space for his accommodation. Elephants, in herds of fifty to four hundred, wander over the tract inundated by the Tchad, and are hunted and killed both for the flesh and the ivory. Hyenas also, in huge and formidable bands, invade the cultivated fields, and are with difficulty prevented from penetrating into the towns. The tall form of the giraffe is not unfrequently seen cropping the leaves of the dense forest. The waters abound with crocodiles and hippopotami, and the flesh of both is valued for food; that of the former, indeed, is described by naturalists as extremely delicate. The country is filled with swarms of bees, which often obstruct the passage of the traveller; and the honey, though only partially collected, forms one of the chief Bornouese delicacies. Antelopes, gazelles, ostriches, and various other quadrupeds and feathered animals, are pursued as game.

The population of Bornou is calculated by Major Denham at 5,000,000; but, considering its limited extent, and the imperfect state of agriculture, this number must, we think, be considerably exaggerated. The leading people, called Bornouese or Kanowry, present a complete specimen of the negro form and features; having large mouths, thick lips, broad noses, an unmeaning face, but good teeth and high foreheads. The females heighten their want of beauty by a most extensive and injudicious system of puncturing and tattooing. The people are peaceably disposed, friendly and courteous in their manners, and distinguished by a sort of good-natured heaviness. Though endowed with a slender degree of courage, they are resentful, and addicted to petty larceny. The law allows of polygamy, but the richest have seldom more than two or three wives, and the rest of the community only one. The favourite amusement is wrestling, not performed in person, but viewed as a spectacle while performed by slaves taken in war from the neighbouring nations, particularly the Beghermes and Musgos. The displays of strength made by these men are said to be often very extraordinary. A powerful wrestler sells at a high price, and the masters place extraordinary pride in the performance of their slaves, cheering them during the combat, and, on its successful issue, often presenting them with valuable robes. Even the ladies of Bornou engage occasionally in public contests, where they often throw each other with violence to the ground. Another favourite amusement consists in a rude game bearing some resemblance to chess, played with beans and holes in the sand.

The Mahommedan religion is universally professed in Bornou, and even with violence and bigotry. Through recommendations brought with them, the English travelers secured good treatment; but, as unbelievers, they were viewed with the deepest horror, and almost as a species of monsters. Even from those who showed at first the most friendly disposition, the disclosure of their creed drew forth deep groans, sometimes screams, and usually arrested all progress to intimacy. A man who had served them for two or three weeks, although he pleaded that it was only under the most extreme necessity, was declared unfit on that ground to be received as a witness in a court of law. There are resident in Bornou a considerable number of fighis (writers or doctors), who have visited Mecca, and are well skilled in Arabic. It is even an employment to write copies of the Koran, which are sent into Barbary, where they bear a considerable price. Its verses are much used as charms or amulets, in the preparation of which the scheik was understood greatly to excel, gaining almost as many victories by his pen as by his sword. The Bornouese, like other negroes, have songs relating to love or war, some of which are said to possess merit; but their intellectual character in general seems to rank extremely low.

The pastoral districts of this country are occupied by a tribe called Shouas, who are accounted Arabs, and speak that language, though they have scarcely any resemblance to those in the north bearing that appellation. They have fine open countenances, with aquiline noses, large eyes, and a complexion of light copper; and they exhibit a strong though improved resemblance to the European gipsies. Their deportment, however, is not very favourably spoken of. They do not want courage, and can furnish the government when necessary with 15,000 horse; but they are arrogant and deceitful, imposing upon the people by the manufacture of charms, and by pretensions to prophecy and fortune-telling. Having thus gained admission into the houses, they not only sell these gifts at a high rate, but embrace opportunities of pilfering. Probably they were observed to disadvantage in the heart of the cities. One of their tribes, called Duggannahs, who were visited in their native tents on the Shary, presented a most pleasing picture of patriarchal simplicity. Their countenances were noble and expressive, and the attachments of kindred and domestic affection were displayed in peculiar force. Another tribe, called the La Salas, almost independent of Bornou, inhabit a number of low islands in the Tchad, covered with rich pasture, and separated from the continent by channels so shallow as to be fordable on horseback. A knowledge of the tracts is however requisite; and those troops who without it attempted to penetrate through them have got entangled in mud, sunk into deep pools, and signally defeated.

The towns in Bornou are of considerable size, surrounded with walls thirty-five or forty feet in height, and twenty feet in thickness, having at each of the four corners a triple gate, composed of strong planks of wood, with bars of iron. The abodes of the principal inhabitants form an inclosed square, in which are separate houses for each of the wives; whilst the chief himself resides in two or more elevated structures resembling turrets, connected together by terraces. These are well built, of a reddish clay, highly polished, so as to resemble stucco; whilst the interior roof, though composed only of branches, is tastefully constructed. The horns of the antelope and gazelle are employed to fasten together the different parts, and have suspended from them the quiver, spear, and shield of the owner. The ordinary houses are small, being built partly of mud and thatched, partly only of straw or coarse grass mats. Major Denham was accommodated in one of eight feet diameter, having a hole two and a half feet high, by which he crept in and out; but this deficiency of aperture was rendered almost necessary by the crowds of tormenting insects who would otherwise have made good their entrance. Though New Bornou and Kouka were the residences, the one of the sultan and the other of the scheik, neither is equal in magnitude to Angnou, estimated to contain 30,000 inhabitants, who, on market days, are swelled to 80,000 or 100,000. On the Yeou are seen the ruins of Old Bornou and Gambarou, which appear to have been greater and better built cities than any now in the kingdom; but they had been so entirely destroyed by the Fellatahs in their late invasion, that the very site is in a great measure covered with shrubs and vegetation. The vicinity is almost laid waste by the inroads of the Tuaricks; and, indeed, all the kingdoms of Central Africa suffer the disadvantage of having their frontier exposed to the ravages of predatory tribes who occupy the rude and desert borders.

The English travellers have held out favourable hopes of the commerce which might be opened with Bornou. They observed the increased and increasing demand, among a numerous population, for goods which Britain either does or could produce cheaper than any other country; and these goods were found selling at an advance of 800 per cent. above their price at Tripoli. On the other hand, it must not be forgotten that the route from that city, though the nearest of any from the coast, greatly exceeds a thousand miles, through the most dreary and desolate tracts, amid the domains of numerous predatory tribes. The merchant has to encounter, therefore, not only accumulated hardships, but all the perils of famine, battle, and pestilence. It would be vain, therefore, to expect that any one would conduct such a trade without very high profits. It is at present carried on by merchants, or rather chiefs, each with a large body of armed followers, alike prepared for commerce or war. The European who should engage in such a trade would be obliged to follow this example, and might expect to encounter their enmity and rivalry. It seems doubtful, therefore, how far such a trade could now be carried on by any other than its present channel.

Amongst the commodities which find a market in Boron are mentioned writing paper, beads, coral, silks and cottons of gaudy patterns, turbans, small carpets, brushes, caftans, and shirts ready made; brass basons tinned, small mirrors, pistols, and other arms ornamented, but cheap. The commodities taken in return are almost exclusively slaves, obtained by purchase or capture; and we fear it will be more difficult than Major Denham supposes to divert the trade from this bad channel. Neither gold nor silver are seemingly to be procured in Boron. Elephants' teeth, ostrich feathers, raw hides, musk, indigo, and saffron, are mentioned as commodities suited to the market of Europe.