an extensive region of North America, extending along its western coast from 22° 48' to 42° N. Lat. and lying between 106° and 124° W. Long. It is bounded on the north and east by the United States' territories and the Gulf of California, and on the south and west by the north Pacific Ocean. It is divided into Old or Lower, and New or Upper California. Previous to the treaty of 1848, by which Upper California was ceded to the United States, they both formed part of the territory of the Mexican Republic. Lower California still belongs to that republic.
LOWER CALIFORNIA is a long narrow peninsula, extending from 22° 48' to 32° 30' N. Lat., and separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California. On the north it is bounded by Upper California, east by the Gulf of California, and on the south and west by the ocean. It is about 700 miles in length, and from 30 to 100 miles in breadth; with an estimated area of about 60,000 square miles, and a population of probably not more than 20,000.
This peninsula is traversed from north to south by a chain of rocky mountains varying in height from 1000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea. These are entirely destitute of verdure, with the exception of here and there a cluster of briars, small shrubs, or dwarf trees, and some few spots in the ridges where the soil is protected from being washed away by the tornadoes, which every few years sweep over the country with such violence, and bearing with them such floods of rain, that whatever of soil has been in any manner previously formed is swept into the sea. The spots so protected are, if well watered, very fertile; but they are rare and of small extent. The rest of the country is interspersed with extensive tracts of sandy soil nearly as barren and unproductive as its rocky mountains, but near the coast there are some few places which are well adapted for cultivation. Altogether, however, this country is one of the most barren and unattractive to be found in the temperate or hotter regions of the earth. According to Farnham, the products of the soil will never maintain 500,000 people in a state of comfort ordinarily found in the civilized condition.
The scarcity of water is one of the great disadvantages under which this region labours. Like other countries of volcanic origin, the porousness of the rocks allows the water to pass underground to the sea, so that few streams or springs are found in Lower California. From Cape San Lucas, its most southern point, to the mouth of the Colorado, 600 miles, there are only two streams entering the gulf. One of these is the San José del Cabo, which passes through the plantations of the mission of the same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San Barnabas. The other is the Mulege, which waters the mission of Santa Rosalia, and enters the gulf in Lat. 27° N. These are not navigable. The streams on the ocean coast are also few and small, none of them being navigable. In the interior are several large springs, which send out copious currents along the rocky beds of their upper courses, but which, on reaching the loose sands and porous rocks of the lower country sink and enter the sea through subterraneous channels. There are some tolerable harbours, but these, from the state of the country, are useless except as places of refuge. The country is said to be rich in minerals, but no mines are wrought except the gold and silver mines of San Antonio, in about 24° N. Lat., and even these afford only a trifling supply. Lead is said to be found towards the southern extremity of the peninsula.
The climate is very hot and dry. The rains fall in the winter months, and are very severe, but of short duration. Summer rains seldom occur north of Loretto, in Lat. 26° N. For the space of 20 or 30 leagues from Cape San Lucas, California, the air is rendered mild and agreeable by the sea-breezes, and the ground in many parts is very fruitful, being watered by numerous little streams from the high lands. Thence to Loretto the heat is excessive, the soil dry and barren, and the surface of the country extremely craggy and forbidding. From Loretto northward the air is more temperate; the water in the mountains sometimes freezes, and the soil though not so rugged and full of rocks, is barren and desolate as that around Loretto. In summer the mean temperature of the country ranges from 60° to 74° Fahr. On the shores of the Pacific the temperature is rendered agreeable by the sea-breezes, and the humidity which they carry with them. On this coast the temperature during summer ranges from 55° to 71° Fahr, and during the rainy season it falls as low as 50°. On the Gulf coast there is a still greater variation; while at the Cape the mercury stands between 60° and 70° degrees, near the head of the Gulf it is down to the freezing point. Violent hurricanes are frequent, but earthquakes seldom occur.
Besides maize, wheat, peas, &c., the few fertile spots of this region produce a variety of fruits, such as grapes, dates, figs, quinces, peaches, pears, and olives. The dates, figs, &c., are preserved; some wine is made; and a kind of spirit is distilled from the mescal. The cattle are numerous, and feed in part on the leaves of the musquito, a species of acacia. Wolves, foxes, deer, goats, several lizards and scorpions, are among the wild animals. Pearls, tortoiseshell, a few hides, dried fruits, dried beef, cheese, soap, &c., constitute its exports, and are mostly sent to San Blas, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, in small coasting vessels. The imports are provisions, clothing, agricultural and domestic utensils, supplies for the ceremonies of the church, and a small amount of the ordinary luxuries of life.
Though the land is thus barren and unproductive, the sea is stored with an incredible abundance and variety of fish. Among these may be mentioned the halibut, salmon, turbot, skate, pilchard, mackerel, sole, lobster, cod, anchovy, and pearl-oyster. The immense beds of pearl-oysters in the gulf have long been a source of attraction to adventurers, and employ several hundreds of Indian divers.
The peninsula of Lower California was discovered by Hernandez de Grijalva in 1534, but no settlement was made by the Spaniards till about the end of the next century, when some Jesuits established themselves there with the view of converting the natives. Loretto, the capital, and the other towns, were founded by the Jesuits, who instructed the natives in agriculture, and persuaded many of them to adopt fixed habitations.
California, Upper, as ceded to the United States by the treaty of 1848, comprises the region between 32° 30' and 42° N. Lat. and 106° and 124° W. Long.; having an area of 448,691 square miles, or 287,162,240 acres. To give some idea of its extent, we may mention that it contains 1202 square miles more than the States of Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Iowa, and Wisconsin combined. This territory is bounded on the north by Oregon, the 42d parallel of N. Lat. being the boundary line between the two territories; on the east by the Rocky Mountains, and the Sierra de los Mimbre, a continuation of the same range; on the south by Sonora and Lower California; and on the west by the ocean. It is 700 miles in length, and 800 miles in breadth.
This extensive territory is naturally divided into two unequal portions lying on either side of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains. The eastern division comprises two portions, the southern being that part of the country drained by the Colorado and its numerous affluents. The other, or N.W. portion of inland California, is known as the "Great Basin," and lies between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevadas, at an elevation of between 4000 and 5000 feet above the sea. It is about 500 miles in diameter, either from north to south, or from east to west; and is surrounded on all sides by mountains, its lakes and rivers having no outlet to the ocean. Its steep interior hills and mountains are covered with forests, and rise abruptly from a base of ten or twenty miles to a height of from 7000 to 10,000 feet. It contains many large bodies of water, among which are the Utah and Great Salt lakes. The plains are arid and sterile, and the greater part of the country is desert; but many parts of it are capable of cultivation. In one of these the Mormons have lately established themselves.
Upper California has, by act of congress, been subdivided to form the State of California, the Territory of Utah, and part of the Territory of New Mexico,—all of which will be found described under their proper heads.
The history of California, previous to its annexation to the United States, presents little of interest to the general reader. It was discovered by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator, in 1542, but was not colonized by the Spaniards until the latter half of the eighteenth century. The northern part was visited in 1578 by Sir Francis Drake, who gave it the name of New Albion. The first colonies were planted by the Roman clergy, under whose direction missions were established in various parts with the view of converting the Indians to the Catholic faith, and by blending agriculture and trade under the tutelage of the church, to render the Indians valuable subjects of the Spanish crown. The revolution which separated Mexico from Spain, annexed California to that republic; and on the adoption of the federal constitution in 1824 the Californias were erected into territories with power to send a member to the general congress, who, however, was not allowed to vote in its decisions. This was followed by the secularization of the missions. In 1833 the salaries of the monks were suspended, the Indians were relieved from servitude, the funds of the church confiscated, and the division of property among natives and settlers decreed. These blows fell heavily upon the monastic farmers and herdsmen, the missions were speedily deserted, and their edifices and establishments fell into decay. Agriculture had always been most carelessly conducted, and their implements were little improved from those used by the earliest settlers; and notwithstanding the fertility of the country, the productions were only equal to the wants of the inhabitants. In 1831, shortly before the close of the missions, the whole cereal productions of Upper California did not exceed 63,000 bushels of wheat, 28,000 bushels of corn, 4200 bushels of frijoles or brown beans, 2800 bushels of garbanzos or peas, and 18,500 bushels of barley. The number of missions at that time was 21; the Indian population in these was 18,683; the number of other classes, that is, of the garrison and free settlers, was 4342; making a total of 23,025. A pastoral life seems to have been more accordant to the tastes of the Californians; and accordingly we find that in 1831 there were 216,727 black cattle, 32,100 horses, 2844 mules, 177 asses, 153,455 sheep, 1873 goats, and 839 swine. In addition to these, there were vast numbers of cattle roaming at large, which were not marked or branded according to the Californian laws as belonging to any of the jurisdictions or missions. Yet from all this multitude but little profit was gained, except from hides and tallow, which then formed their only articles of trade; the dairy was altogether neglected, and butter and cheese almost unknown. The natives and settlers soon became dissatisfied with the national government that succeeded the milder sway of the clergy, and more than once the people declared themselves independent, but as often rejoined the confederation. Its distance from the metropolis tended to render its subjection to Mexico of a very nominal character. In 1846 California was occupied by the United States forces; and by the California, treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo on 2d February 1848, the whole country was ceded to that government. In the latter part of the same month, a mechanic named Marshall, employed in building a saw-mill for Captain Sutter, on the south branch of a river known as the American Fork, while cutting a mill-lead, discovered scales of gold in the soil. Pieces of considerable size were taken out, and in a few days gold to the amount of $150 was gathered. The news spread rapidly through the country, and examinations were prosecuted at other points along the stream, and almost everywhere with success. The towns were forthwith deserted by their male population, and a complete cessation of the whole industrial pursuits of the country was the consequence. Commerce, agriculture, mechanical pursuits, professions—all were abandoned for the purpose of gathering the glittering treasure which lay buried in the ravines, gorges, and rivers of the Sierra Nevada. In the mean time, news of the discovered El Dorado crossed the continent; and although its marvels were regarded by many as fabulous, there were others who either abandoned their homes for the wilderness, or sent hither valuable cargoes, from the sale of which they drew enormous profits. Under the temptations of trade and discovery, an immense emigration, chiefly of males, poured into California, not only from the United States, but also from Mexico, Chili, Peru, China, the Sandwich Islands, and other parts. Within a year after this wonderful discovery, the Californians felt that they were no longer outlying colonists of the American Union requiring pecuniary support and military protection against savages. Immense fleets arriving from all parts of the world poured large revenues into the national coffers. Intelligent and industrious men thronged the towns that sprang up as if by enchantment at every advantageous point. Property in land and moveables became suddenly valuable beyond the hopes or dreams of the early settlers. In 1849, in consequence of the disorganized condition of society, and the insecurity which generally prevailed, the people by their delegates met in convention at Monterey, on 1st of September, and drew up a constitution, which met with general approval. The main feature of this document is its exclusion of slavery from the state—otherwise it does not differ much from the generality of those of the older states. After a warm discussion in congress at Washington, California was admitted as a state of the Union, on the 9th of September 1850.
California, State of, is bounded on the north by Oregon, east by Utah and New Mexico, south by Old California, and on the west by the ocean. The boundary-line, as sanctioned by the act of congress, extends from the ocean along the 42° N. Lat., to its intersection by the 120° W. Long., then southward along the latter to Lat. 39°, thence S.E. to the point where the Rio Colorado intersects the parallel of 35°, thence down the middle of the channel of that river to the boundary-line between the United States and Mexico, along which it continues to the ocean. Its area, exclusive of the islands adjacent to the coast, is 155,550 square miles, or 99,552,000 acres.
It is traversed from north to south by two great ranges of mountains, called respectively the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range; the former separating this region from the Great Basin, and from 150 to 200 miles distant from the coast; the latter running almost parallel to and at a short distance from the coast. Between these is the great valley of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin rivers, the former traversing the northern and the latter the southern part of the valley; they meet near the centre and pour their united waters into the bay of San Francisco. This valley is about 500 miles in length and 50 in breadth, and presents the appearance of having been at one period the bed of a lake. These two rivers have numerous affluents, many of them of considerable size. Lateral ranges of mountains parallel to the Sierra Nevada and the coast, and varying in height from 2000 to 4000 feet above the sea, diversify the surface of the country. These form greater masses, and become more elevated in the north, where some peaks, as the Shaste, enter the region of perpetual snow. The plains and valleys have only a general elevation of a few hundred feet above the sea. The coast is generally precipitous and rugged, having few good harbours, with the exception of those of San Diego, Monterey, and San Francisco. The bay of San Francisco is indeed one of the finest in the world. It is separated from the sea by low mountain ranges, with an entrance only about a mile wide at its narrowest part, and five miles long from the sea to the bay. Passing through this narrow entrance the bay opens to the right and left, extending in each direction about 35 miles, having a total length of 70, and a coast of 275 miles. It contains numerous islands, some mere rocks, others covered with grass, and rising to the height of from 300 to 800 feet. The surrounding country is picturesque and fertile. A few miles from the shore, and directly fronting its entrance, mountains crowned by forests of lofty cypress rise to the height of 2000 feet, and form a conspicuous landmark for vessels entering the bay. A delta of 25 miles in length, divided into islands by deep channels, connects the bay with the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, both of which are navigable for a considerable distance.
The climate varies considerably in different parts of the country. It is divided into two distinct seasons of wet and dry; the former, at San Francisco, extending from the middle of November to the middle of May. In the southern parts of the country the dry season commences earlier and continues longer than in the northern. The rains, though by no means continuous, are frequent and heavy. During the dry season the prevalence of cold winds and fogs from the sea render the district along the coast very unpleasant to strangers. But in the interior, particularly in the valleys of Sacramento and San Joaquin, the climate is delightful,—the heat during the day not being so intense as along the coast, while the nights are cool and pleasant. On the Sierra Nevada, where the influence of the sea-breeze ceases to be felt, the thermometer frequently ranges from 110° to 115° in the shade during two or three hours of the day; the nights, on the other hand, are cool and invigorating. Mr King remarks, "Those who take up their residence in the valleys which are situated between the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin and the coast range of hills, find the climate, especially in the dry season, as healthful and pleasant as it is possible for any climate to be which possesses sufficient heat to mature the cereal grains and edible roots of the temperate zone."
Westward of the rivers Sacramento and San Joaquin, the soil is chiefly dry and unproductive; but on the east side the country is well-watered and luxuriantly fertile, being intersected by numerous fine streams, and wooded principally with white oaks. The lowest hills of the Sierra which line the valley present a woodland country diversified with undulating grounds and pretty vales. Near the Tulare lakes, and on the margins of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, the surface is composed of level plains, gradually changing into undulating land toward the mountains. The region from the coast range to the ocean has long been the seat of numerous missions; and around these, generally situated in the most lovely vales, agriculture has converted the country into a perfect garden. All the cereals of temperate regions are cultivated, and the olive and vine grow luxuriously. Wild oats grow in great profusion along the coast, and as far inland as the sea-breeze has any material influence. The grasses are very luxuriant and nutritious, affording excellent pasture. As the heat and drought of summer are excessive, artificial irrigation, where employed, greatly increases the natural fertility of the soil. The diversities of climate and soil in different parts of the state render its vegetation of a very heterogeneous character—from the luxuriant productions of the tropics, to the stunted and scanty productions of the frozen regions. Of the pine and oak there are several noble and useful varieties; one of the former is occasionally found growing to the height of 240 feet, with a girth at the base of nearly 60 feet: its seeds are as large as a good-sized bean, and furnish a common article of food to the Indians, who collect large quantities of them in the autumn, and pound them into a kind of cake, which is baked on heated stones. Another variety of the pine is frequently found 110 feet high, and from 10 to 12 feet in diameter. The white oak grows on the low and level parts of the country. It is not generally a large tree, being from 40 to 50 feet high, and from 2 to 3 feet in diameter at the base. It is in some places very abundant. The *Quercus nealis* is found on the prairies, river banks, and lower hills, and is 4 or 5 feet in diameter, with branches of corresponding dimensions, extending horizontally from the trunk. The *Quercus viridis* grows only on the highlands, and is from 60 to 70 feet in height, and from 2 to 5 in diameter. The maple, ash, beech, and chestnut, in several varieties, compose a great part of the forests. The flowering shrubs and plants of California are of great variety and beauty. A species of currant (*Ribes speciosum*), with its long crimson stamens and dark-green leaves, is one of the most beautiful of the flowering shrubs, and is exceedingly abundant in some localities. In many places are found several species of *Mimulus*, one of which is from 3 to 4 feet in height, and very beautiful. The coast abounds with various species of *fuci*.
The animal kingdom of California includes several species of bear, the raccoon, American badger, otter, wolf, fox, cougar, lynx, weasel, ermine, mink, martin, skunk, beaver, muskrat. Large herds of elk are often seen, and other species of deer are common. The mountain sheep is also common. This animal in its general appearance resembles the domestic sheep, but is much larger, and is covered with a coarse short hair of a dingy brown colour, which can scarcely be called wool. Hares, rabbits, squirrels, marmots, as well as rats and mice, are very abundant in all parts of the country.
The feathered tribes are not found in great variety in California. Among these is the great vulture (*Sarcoramphus Californianus*), which is found along the coast: it is of a brownish-black colour, solitary in its habits, rapacious, and of enormous size, being, when full grown, about 4 feet 8 inches from the beak to the extremity of the tail, and from 9 to 10 feet from tip to tip of its wings. The Turkey buzzard is found, though not frequently; but the black vulture is common in all parts of the country. The golden and whiteheaded eagles, and several species of hawk, are found here, as well as ravens, magpies, jays, woodpeckers, crossbills, larks, robins, swallows, &c. In some parts of the south humming-birds are numerous. American grouse are very plentiful, and in great variety. The bays, inlets, and rivers, swarm with water-fowl; and the lowlands near the outlets of some of the streams are most abundant in geese, ducks, widgeons, teal, cranes, curlews, snipes, &c. The swan is the largest swimming bird of the country. The white pelican is frequently met with on the coast.
The waters of California afford a great variety of fish. Salmon are found in almost incredible numbers in all the rivers and streams connected with the sea. Sturgeons, some of them from 8 to 10 feet in length, porpoises, mackerel, halibut, pilchard, skate, turbot, bonito, &c., are common in various parts. The shell fish are plentiful and valuable, as oysters, mussels, &c.
Though the gold mania in California dates only from 1848, yet the existence of that metal in the country has been long known to travellers. Richard Hakluyt, who accompanied Drake in his expedition in 1577–79, in describing California, this region, says, "There is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and silver." Captain George Shelvock, who visited the country in August 1721, states, that "The eastern coast of that part of California which I had sight of appears to be mountainous, barren, and sandy; but, nevertheless, the soil about Pojo, Segure, and very likely in most of the valleys, is a rich black mound, which, as you turn it fresh up to the sun, appears as if mingled with gold dust, some of which we endeavoured to wash and purify; but though we were a little prejudiced against the thought that it should be possible that this metal should be so promiscuously and universally mingled with common earth, yet we endeavoured to cleanse and wash the earth from some of it; and the more we did the more it appeared like gold." It is very probable that this country abounds in metals of all sorts, although the inhabitants had no utensils or ornaments of any metals whatever, which is no wonder, since they are so perfectly ignorant in all arts." Antonio de Alcedo, in his *Diccionario Geografico Historico de Las Indias Occidentales e America*, Madrid, 1786–89, as translated by Thompson, son, says, "All the ravines, and even plains (of California) contain gold scattered up and down the alluvious land. *Pepitas*, lumps of pure gold of the weight of from two to three kilogrammes (from 5 lb. to 8 lb. troy) have been found there." An article in Hunt's *Merchants' Magazine* for April 1847, by Mr Sloat, who was there in 1845 or 1846, states, that from all the information he was enabled to obtain during his stay, there is not the least doubt that gold, silver, quicksilver, copper, lead, sulphur, &c. are to be found in all that region; and adds, "I am confident that when it becomes settled (as it soon will be) by Americans, that its mineral developments will greatly exceed in richness and variety the most sanguine expectations."
The *Gold Region* of California is between 400 and 500 miles long, and from 40 to 50 miles broad, following the line of the Sierra Nevada. It embraces those extensive ranges of hills which, rising on the eastern border of the plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and extending eastward from 50 to 60 miles, attain an elevation of about 4000 feet, and terminate at the base of the main ridge of the Sierra Nevada. Farther discoveries will probably extend the area of this region.
It is watered by numerous rivers and streams, which take their rise in the Sierra Nevada, and after flowing through the hills at the foot of that range enter the Sacramento and San Joaquin. The principal rock formation in these hills is talc slate; above it, and sometimes penetrating to a great depth, is quartz rock, which however does not cover extensive tracts of country, but occurs massive and in veins, and is found in fragments scattered on the surface. Gold is found only in particular localities in the bars and shoals of the rivers, in ravines, and in what are called the "dry diggings." The rivers in their courses coming in contact with the quartz containing gold, by constant attrition wash out the gold in small particles, which are afterwards found among the sand and gravel of their beds at those places which are left exposed in the dry season.
The dry diggings are places where veins of quartz containing gold have cropped out and been disintegrated, crumbled to fragments, gravel, and dust, by the action of water and the atmosphere. The gold has been left in pieces of all sizes from one grain to several pounds in weight. A very large proportion of the pieces of gold found in these situations have more or less quartz adhering to them. This gold, not having been exposed to the attrition of a strong current of water, retains in a great degree its original conformation. These diggings, in some places, extend over valleys of considerable extent, which have the appearance of an alluvion of decomposed quartz and slate, earth, and ve- California—getable matter, formed by washings from the adjoining hills. Several vein mines have also been discovered in the quartz, from which numerous specimens have been taken. In these veins the gold, which is generally alloyed with silver, is combined with the quartz in all imaginable forms and degrees of richness. The grain gold of California averages as follows:—Gold, 90-33; silver, 6-90; oxide of iron, 1-08; earthy matter, 1-69; = 100. The rivers present very striking, and it would seem conclusive, evidence respecting the quantity of gold remaining undiscovered in the quartz veins. The latest news from California state that the exports of gold recorded at the custom-house amounted, in 1853, to $67,873,505. The whole yield for that year is calculated at nearly $70,000,000; and in five years and ten weeks to the end of 1853, the quantity produced is estimated at $260,000,000. There are now 125,000 persons engaged in mining. During this year they have prosecuted their great enterprise with industry and skill—have made canals, built aqueducts, turned rivers from their beds, tunnelled the hills, &c. New machinery and new methods have been employed—amongst them, that of washing the ores by water thrown from a great height. Comparatively few new mines have been discovered, but some old ones have been found richer than was expected. The valley of the Klamath has been most attractive, and has been more developed than any other part of the state. Quartz-mining makes but little progress. Various other branches of industry are carried on successfully. There are probably 80,000 persons engaged in cultivating the soil; but labour being very dear, roads bad, and communication altogether very imperfect, farming has not been so profitable as mining. Trade has been prosperous. The assessor's roll of St Francisco showed in August a valuation of $30,000,000. The navigation was as follows, as derived from the books of the custom-house of the entrances and clearances for 1853 to the 27th December:
| Entered From | Cleared For | |--------------|-------------| | Domestic Ports | 449 vessels, 351,144 tonsage | | Foreign Ports | 569 vessels, 232,165 tonsage | | Whaling voyages | 10 vessels, 2,545 tonsage | | Total | 1,028 vessels, 555,794 tonsage | | Total for 1852 | 1,104 vessels, 513,286 tonsage | | Total for 1851 | 847 vessels, 245,556 tonsage |
The quicksilver mines of California are believed to be numerous, extensive, and very valuable. The best known of these is that near San Jose. The cinnabar ore lies near the surface, is easily procured, and believed to be remarkably rich. Discoveries of other mines are reported, but no certain information respecting them has been made public. It is believed, however, that quicksilver will eventually be found in sufficient quantities for all the purposes of extensive gold-mining operations, if not for export. It is also believed that California is rich in silver, copper, lead, iron, and coal. At a short distance from Monterey, a silver mine has been discovered which affords a very rich ore; and bituminous coal is abundant in the neighbourhood of San Francisco.
The population of Upper California was estimated by Humboldt in 1802 at no more than 16,862, of whom 15,562 were converted Indians; and, as already mentioned, by Forbes in 1831 at 23,025. In 1847 the white inhabitants amounted only to about 16,000. From the state of the country, any census reports must necessarily be very incomplete. That of 1850, which gives the population at 117,538, can scarcely be considered an approximation. General Douglass is probably more nearly correct in estimating the population in the autumn of that year at 180,000. W. Van Voorhies, secretary of state, in his report upon the census of 1852, dated 25th January 1853, says, "Immediately after the adjournment of the last legislature, active measures were commenced, which have been prosecuted up to the California present time, for the purpose of making a correct and complete exhibit of the population and resources of the state. This object, however, has been but imperfectly accomplished, in consequence in some degree of the intrinsic difficulties of so complicated and extensive an undertaking in a new and comparatively unknown country, but mainly owing to the mixed, unsettled, and fluctuating character of our population, the difficulty of thoroughly exploring the mountain counties, the hostile tribes of Indians infesting some sections, and the mistaken supposition on the part of many that the business of the census agent was in some way connected with taxation. Believing that the occasion of taking this census afforded an opportunity (which might not be again soon enjoyed) of procuring interesting geographical, geological, mineralogical, and other information pertaining to the natural curiosities and features of the state, I embraced it, and instructed each of the census agents to collect whatever of notable objects might come within their observation. These instructions, not having been received by some of them until they were far advanced in their labour, were only carried out in a portion of the counties." "A large number of the most important counties having failed to furnish any information on these subjects, we are left to conclude that much of the most useful and interesting matter in this branch remains yet to be developed." The population of the state as returned amounted to 224,435; no returns, however, had been made for the county of El Dorado, which is admitted to be one of the most populous and productive in the state; estimating it therefore at 40,000, the entire population would amount to 264,435.
"There can be no doubt, however," says the secretary, "that, in consequence of the difficulties previously mentioned, not more than five-sixths of the whole population of the state has been taken. The reports of all the census agents who have made returns set forth the fact of their inability to obtain the whole population of their respective counties. Adding then one-sixth to the population returned, and that estimated for El Dorado county, gives the population of the state at 308,507, which is believed to be about correct."
The following particulars of the various counties are extracted from the census report of 1852:
**Butte County** extends 100 miles from north to south, and 250 from east to west. The Butte mountains, from which the county takes its name, are situated on the Sacramento. Of these, Mount Hood, in the northern part of the county, is the most striking, towering far above its neighbours, and presenting an apex covered with perpetual snow. The scenery is grand and picturesque. It has many beautiful and fertile valleys well fitted for pasture and agriculture; water is abundant, and irrigation easy. Majestic pines and cedars occupy the mountains. Platina and iron abound in all the mining districts, but not in sufficient quantities to require machinery. Fine lead ore is found on the head waters of the Middle Fork. Quicksilver is abundant, and silver is found in small quantities. There are many fine sites for mills—fifteen quartz mills, eleven water and three steam saw-mills, are in operation. The cultivated land amounts to 2144 acres. Pop. 8,572, of which the whites number 6,174 males, and 206 females.
**Calaveras County.** The principal rivers are the Stanislaus, on its southern boundary; the Moquelumne, equidistant from its northern and southern boundaries; and the Calaveras, 8 miles south of the Moquelumne; taking their rise in the Sierra Nevada and falling into the San Joaquin. The most important town is Moquelumne Hill, situated 1½ miles south of the Moquelumne river, and having a large trade; besides which it contains a number of small towns or camps. Pop. 20,192; whites, 17,968 males and 973 females.
**Colusa.** Though not a mining county, yet gold has been found within its limits. Cultivated land, 1962 acres. Pop. 620; whites, 400 males and 63 females.
**Contra Costa County** contains limestone of excellent quality; gypsum is found in one place; and excellent building California stone and red freestone have been discovered. There are a number of saline springs; and sulphurous springs, mostly tepid, are abundant. Many springs, and plenty of water for cattle. The towns are, Martinez (the seat of justice), Oakland, and Squatterville. Cultivated land, 9093 acres. Pop. 2745; whites, 1937 males and 550 females.
Klamath County.—A great part of this county is eminently fitted for agriculture. The rivers Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon, all abound in gold. The Salmon mountain, between the Salmon and Klamath, is covered with snow for nine months in the year; and Mount Prospect, on the Klamath, rising 8000 feet above the sea. Cultivated land, 109 acres. Pop. 530; whites, 458 males and 9 females.
Los Angeles County is well watered and wooded, and capable of producing every variety of vegetables. San Bernardino valley, 60 miles east of Los Angeles city, is rich and well watered. It is occupied by Mormons. San Bernardino rises to a great height. Mount San Gorgonio is 20 miles S.E. of the preceding, on the boundary between this county and the desert. The climate is remarkably salubrious and genial. The rivers are Santa Ana, San Gabriel, Rio de Los Angeles, and tributaries. Port San Pedro has good anchorage, and is perfectly safe, except during the prevalence of the S.E. winds in winter. Limestone and building-stone are found in abundance. There are also a number of salt springs. A spring of petroleum, six miles from Los Angeles, covers about two acres of ground. Placer gold is found; and 200 miles from Los Angeles there is a vein of quartz-bearing gold. There are great facilities for agriculture, which however, has been neglected. The mission lands are principally cultivated under the direction of the priests. Hemp and tobacco, though not grown now, were formerly raised in considerable quantities. Cotton and sugar-cane succeed well. There are many fine orchards producing almost all tropical fruits. Cultivated land, 5087 acres. There are 165 vineyards (all, except twenty, at the city of Los Angeles). Pop. 7831; white, 2496 males and 1597 females.
Marin.—Although not a mining county, yet gold-bearing quartz, placer gold, silver and copper ores, have been found. Iron ore is abundant. Cinnabar, steatite or soapstone, lime, asphaltum, marble, brick clay, and granite, are abundant and of good quality. The towns are, San Rafael (the seat of justice), Sausalito, and Corta Madera. One-half of the land is susceptible of cultivation, and the other well adapted for grazing. Garden vegetables of all kinds are abundant. Cultivated land, 1250 acres. Marin possesses four large steam saw-mills. Pop. 1036; white, 652 males and 160 females.
Mariposa County.—Here agriculture, though still in its infancy, has lately been making rapid advances, and abundant proofs are shown of its adaptation to all kinds of produce. Wild oats, clover, and other rich grasses are abundant in the San Joaquin valley, and the lower hills of the Sierra Nevada. Wild horses and game of all kinds are plentiful. There are extensive forests of red wood, cedar, and pine, along the lower hills of the Sierra Nevada. There are two saw-mills in operation, and many desirable sites for others. The San Joaquin passing through this county abounds in salmon and other kinds of fish, and is navigable for moderate-sized steam-boats to within a few miles of Fort-Miller. The Merced river also abounds in fish. Between the San Joaquin and the Merced are numerous streams of minor importance, rising in the lower hills of the Sierra Nevada, and affording supplies of water for mining purposes. Gold is abundant. There are six quartz mills in operation, and many erecting. Immense deposits of gold are known to exist in the beds of the San Joaquin and Merced rivers, and other streams, but could only be obtained by a heavy expenditure of capital and labour. Minerals of every kind are found. The extent of the gold region is perhaps a hundred miles in breadth, extending back into the unexplored regions. The finest kind of marble exists at the North Fork of the Merced and elsewhere. There are various kinds of mineral springs in different parts. Fort-Miller is situated at the entrance of the San Joaquin river into the plains. Pop. 8969, of whom 2752 are Americans.
Mendocino County.—Pop. 416; white, 169 males and 25 females.
Monterey County has an average length of 90, and a width of 38 miles, with an area of 420 square miles. It is divided into three valleys, known as the San Juan, Salinas, and Carmel. It is watered by the Salinas or San Buenaventura, and California, other streams. In the upper end of the Salinas valley are sulphurous springs. Gold has been found at San Antonio and in Carmel valley; silver has also been found in small quantities; much of the land is rich and productive. Stock-raising is extensively carried on. Cultivated land 3117 acres. Pop. 2728; white, 1152 males and 791 females.
Napa County has 10,584 acres in cultivation. Mount St Helen, at the head of the valley of Napa, is 3500 feet in height. Gold is found, but not in sufficient quantities to encourage mining. A mine of quicksilver, about 14 miles above the town of Napa, is supposed to be very rich. The country is celebrated for its medicinal springs. The Napa river rises in the northern part of the Napa valley, and flowing in a southern direction, empties itself into Pablo bay. It is navigable for vessels of five feet draft for 12 miles above its mouth. Las Putas rises in the north part of the county, runs in an easterly direction through the beautiful Berryessa valley, thence through the mountains into the Sacramento valley, and afterwards loses itself in the Tule marshes. Napa city stands on the west bank of the river of that name, about 12 miles from its mouth. Pop. 300. Suscol is on the same river, about 6 miles from its mouth. The hot sulphurous springs in the mountains are from 70 to 80 feet above Napa city in a northerly direction, are from 1 to 8 or 9 feet in diameter, and constantly in a boiling state, the water being ejected to the height of ten or fifteen feet. Hundreds of sufferers in the sides of the mountain emit strong currents of heated vapour, making deep hissing noises. Pop. 2116; white, 923 males and 232 females.
Nevada County has 1557 acres in cultivation. There are 33 quartz mills. Pop. 21,365; white, 12,448 males and 920 females.
Placer County has 679 acres in cultivation. Pop. 10,754, mostly engaged in mining; of these, the whites number 6602 males and 343 females.
Sacramento County is rich in cereal and vegetable productions. Pop. 12,559; white, 9457 males and 1739 females.
San Joaquin County is essentially agricultural, being situated in the heart of a fertile valley hundreds of miles in extent, with fine graining; 4000 acres are cultivated. Mining is but little carried on. The roads and bridges are excellent. The chief town is Stockton, with a population of 3000, one of the principal cities of the state, on the Stockton slough or channel (about three miles from its junction with the San Joaquin), navigable for vessels at all seasons; the streams are San Joaquin, Moquelumne, Calaveras, Stanislaus, and Dry creek. Settlers are rapidly establishing themselves on the banks of these rivers. Pop. 5029; white, 3582 males and 957 females.
San Luis Obispo County.—The mineral, agricultural, and commercial resources of this county are great. It has rich silver mines, and a fine coal-mine. Lime rock is abundant; copper and iron are supposed to exist on the bay of San Simeon. There are many large petroleum springs, and a warm sulphurous spring about ten miles south of San Luis Obispo. Wild horses are found in large numbers on the plains in the N.E. part of the county. The cultivated land is 2338 acres. Pop. 934; white, 331 males and 163 females.
Santa Clara County has 19,066 acres in cultivation. Pop. 6664; white, 5813 males and 2062 females.
Santa Cruz County has 5472 acres of cultivated land, and 1219 inhabitants; white, 723 males and 374 females.
Santa Barbara County has 2131 inhabitants; whites, 834 males and 682 females. It has 699 acres in cultivation. The soil is very productive, especially where it admits of irrigation. The coast range of mountains here attains the height of 4000 feet; one of these is a volcano. The rivers are, the Santa Clara, the San Buenaventura, and the Santa Inez. The waters of the coast abound in many species of excellent fish. A bed of large and well-flavoured oysters, 150 yards in length, 25 feet wide, and 2 or 3 feet thick, has been discovered near Santa Barbara. The islands are much frequented by otters, bottle-nose and other seals, and beavers. There is a hot sulphurous spring, temperature above 100° Fahr., near the village of Santa Barbara. In the neighbourhood are one or two petroleum springs. For leagues along the coast the sea throws up bitumen. The Salinas afford abundance of salt, which is gathered in August and September. Gold is found in the southern part of the county. California. San Diego County has 304 acres of cultivated land. Pop. 2932; white, 397 males and 140 females.
San Francisco County.—The soil is rich and productive, and farming is rapidly extending, but its agricultural resources have as yet been little developed. Cultivated land 1297 acres. San Francisquito creek, dividing this county from Santa Clara, rises in the Sierra Morena, runs eastward, and empties itself into San Francisco bay. Gold in small quantities has been found in this creek. Of the Sierra Morena or Brown Mountains, the most remarkable commence at a point about 10 miles south of San Francisco, and run along the coast until they unite with the range of the same name in the county of Santa Clara. These mountains, which rise above 2000 feet, protect the inhabitants of the valley from the coast winds. Pop. 36,151; white, 30,156 males and 5375 females. The city of San Francisco has 34,876 inhabitants; the whites numbering 29,166 males and 5154 females.
Shasta County has numerous mines. There is not a river, creek, or ravine, that does not contain gold. The principal stream is the Sacramento river; besides which there are numerous small streams and creeks that are particularly valuable for the purposes of the miner. There are numerous mineral springs strongly impregnated: the most celebrated is the soda spring near the Sacramento river, 60 miles north of Shasta city; and the salt springs, 12 or 15 in number, which would produce salt enough to supply the state. There are 908 acres in cultivation. Pop. 4050; white, 3448 males and 202 females.
Sierra County has 168 acres of cultivated land. Saddle Peak rises to the height of 7200 feet; Table Mountain 8000; and Buttes, at the head of South Fork, to the height of 9000 feet. The towns are, Downieville, with 810 inhabitants; Pine Grove, with 504; Windsor, with 210; Cox's and Snake Bars, with 346; and Goodyear's Bar, with 356 inhabitants. Pop. 4855; white, 3630 males and 62 females.
Lassen County has 309 acres in cultivation. Pop. 2240; white, 1874 males and 82 females.
Solano County.—In the eastern part of the county is a double mountain peak very conspicuous at the head of Green valley; the next in magnitude is a double peak between Green valley and Suscol. Puta river, 10 miles north of Ulattis valley, rises in the mountains, winds through a rich and fertile plain, and loses itself in the extensive Tules which lie between the plains and the Sacramento river. The western part of the county is mountainous, and very interesting; many of the small valleys are well adapted for raising stock. Three large soda springs rise in these valleys. Suscol valley, west of the Suscol hills, runs from the city of Vallejo to the northern part of the county, is 8 miles in length and 3 in breadth, and washed through its entire length by Napa bay. The valleys form an interesting portion of this county; they are well adapted for farming, producing wild oats of luxuriant growth. Cultivated land 5049 acres. Pop. 2835; white, 2324 males and 402 females.
Sonoma County has 9357 acres of cultivated land, and 2337 inhabitants, the whites numbering 1309 males and 511 females.
Sutter County has 1401 acres of cultivated land, and 1207 inhabitants, the white population being 590 males and 85 females.
Trinity County has 275 acres in cultivation, and 1764 inhabitants; white pop. 1741 males and 23 females.
Tuolumne County has 1870 acres of cultivated land, and 1707 inhabitants; whites 15,967 males and 958 females.
Tuolumne County has 8375 inhabitants; whites, 142 males and 32 females; 8400 Indians.
Yolo County has 1307 inhabitants, of whom 1085 are males and 189 females. Cultivated land, 3340 acres.
Yuba County has 22,005 inhabitants; whites, 16,666 males and 633 females. Cultivated land, 7008 acres. This county is very rich in gold and quicksilver. The principal stream is the Bear river, forming the county boundary line on the south, and falling into the Feather river 31 miles below Marysville; besides which there are numerous small streams and creeks, which abound in gold. On the Middle Yuba is Oregon Hill, which, according to Dr. Frost, rises to the height of 2500 feet. The towns and villages are, Marysville on the Yuba river, 1 mile above its confluence with the Feather river, pop. 4500; Ousley's Bar, 13 miles above Marysville, pop. 360; Kennebeck, 14 miles above Marysville, pop. 120; Long's Bar, 16 miles above Marysville, pop. 450.
El Dorado County, from which no returns have been obtained, is supposed to have a population of about 40,000, of whom about 30,000 are whites.
California sends two members to the congress of the United States, and two members to the house of representatives. The legislative power is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate of sixteen members, elected for two years; and a house of representatives of thirty-six members, elected for one year. The sittings of the general assembly are held annually. The supreme court consists of a chief-justice and two associate justices. It has appellate jurisdiction where the matter in dispute exceeds 200 dollars, and where the legality of certain acts is questioned, as well as in certain criminal cases. The justices are elected by the people for six years, and are so classified that one goes out of office every two years. The senior judge in office is the chief justice. The district courts have jurisdiction in law and equity where the amount in dispute, exclusive of interest, exceeds 200 dollars. The constitution provided that at the first election the judges should be chosen by the legislature, but afterwards by the people, and for a term of six years. A county judge is elected in each county for four years to act as judge of probates, to hold the county court, and with two justices of the peace to hold courts of session for criminal business. Clerks of courts, district attorneys, sheriffs, coroners, &c., are elected by the people.
The constitution provides for the election of a superintendent of public instruction, to hold office for three years, and that the legislature shall establish a system of common schools to be taught at least 3 months in each year. A superintendent has been elected, but as yet there are but few schools. The capital of the state is, for the present, Vallejo, but the question of its future locality is still unsettled.
California promises at no distant day to be one of the first states in the Union. The bold and enterprising character of her present inhabitants cannot fail of rendering it a great, wealthy, and powerful state. In the ordinary elements of wealth and power, it is not behind the older states, while it far surpasses the most favoured in her inexhaustible supplies of the precious metals. In many of its productions it is (as shown by the census of 1852) already in advance of many of the other states. Though agriculture has yet been comparatively little attended to, the fact that it excels most of them in the productions of the soil shows the fertility and productivity of the land. The counties of Yolo, Trinity, Sutter, Santa Cruz, San Diego, Sacramento, and Nevada, have reported merchandise to the amount of $400,000,000. The many interesting geological developments made by the census places this far in advance of all the other states in the variety and importance of its mineral productions.
Gulf of, an arm of the Pacific Ocean, separating the peninsula of Lower California from the mainland. It lies between Lat. 23. and 32. N. and Long. 107. and 114. W.; and is about 700 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 40 to 150 miles. Its western shores are generally high and rocky, with few places of shelter; its eastern shores are lower and less rocky. It contains numerous islands; and at its northern extremity receives the rivers Colorado and Gila.—See CALIFORNIA, LOWER.