a county in the south of Scotland, situated between 56° 2' and 55° 31' N. Lat.; and 2° 39' and 3° 53' W. Long. Its greatest length is nearly sixty miles, and its greatest breadth from thirty to thirty-one. The boundaries are Kirkcudbright and Ayrshire on the S.W.; Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles, on the N.E.; Lanark on the N.; and on the S. the Solway Firth and the county of Cumberland. The principal rivers are the Nith, the Annan, and the Esk, all of which discharge themselves into the Solway Firth. These rivers are fed by numerous tributaries, and the whole of them abound in salmon. The square miles of the county are calculated at 1129, and the acres at 722,813. Like many other Scottish counties, Dumfriesshire is popularly divided into districts. Of these there are three principal; Eskdale on the east, Annandale in the middle, and Nithsdale on the west; each taking its name from the river which traverses it. From these larger divisions diverge smaller vales, which likewise derive their titles from the streams that flow through them, such as Moffatdale, Dryestdale, and Ewesdale. From various circumstances, the limits of these great divisions are but imperfectly defined, and have recently been abandoned. The Solway Firth waters the base of the county for twenty-four miles, and along its margin the land is generally flat for about ten miles. Beyond this the county expands into a series of hills and valleys, which rise gradually northward till they reach the mountain chain which bounds it in that quarter. The principal elevations are, Lowther near Wanlockhead, which rises 3150 feet, and Hartfell in Annandale, which rises 2629 feet above the level of the sea. In former times it was said that 86 square miles were in general low arable land, lying on the sea-coast, 322 miles chiefly hilly, and 598 mountainous. But this distribution has been disturbed by the steady progress of bone manure and green-crop husbandry. Steeps which it was impossible to sharpen by common manure, from the expense and difficulty of transporting it thither, have been brought into excellent heart by ground bones, and improved by at least 100 per cent, both as crop and pasture land. Many hills which were nearly bare have been covered to their tops with thriving plantations. Since 1810 the Dukes of Buccleuch have inclosed and planted 6600 acres of land; extensive additions are contemplated. Large sums of money have been expended in road-making and fencing. Still a large proportion of the county is mountainous, and is devoted almost exclusively to sheep farming, which, since the mortality of 1829, has again become very profitable. Judging from the map, nearly a third of the land in the county belongs to the Duke of Buccleuch, who possesses a rental of nearly L200,000 yearly, L80,000 of which are drawn from Dumfriesshire. In 1811, when the property-tax pressed on the energies of the country, the whole rental of the county was estimated at L246,001, 12s. 6d.; and although rents have fallen greatly since that period, so marked has been the progress of improvement, that at present (1854) it has risen to L334,272, made up thus: lands L280,885; houses and tenements, L46,287; quarries, mines, fisheries, gas-works, L7100. The principal proprietors are the Duke of Buccleuch, the Marquis of Queensberry, and the Earl of Mansfield; Mr Hope Johnstone of Rachils, General Sharpe of Hoddam, Mr Rogerson of Dumcrieff, Mr Douglas Baird of Closeburn, and Mr M'Alpine Leny of Dalswinton.

The climate of Dumfriesshire is mild and salubrious. Much of the land has a southern exposure, and, excepting in very severe winters, the snow speedily disappears. The soils are gravel or sand loam, and clay, with moor and moss in some places, particularly along the bed of the Lochar, with alluvial tracts on the banks of the rivers and the Solway Firth. The farms vary greatly in size; but for years there has been a tendency to uproot almost entirely the pendicle system. On the Buccleuch estates the farms are generally extensive. Many excellent standings of houses have been built, and subdivisions formed over waste tracts, which for centuries remained uninclosed. The usual rate of wages for a ploughman is from L6 to L10 per half-year, with board and lodging in the case of unmarried men, and a proportionate allowance of meal, potato-land, &c., for binds with families. House and dairy maids receive from L3 to L3, 10s. per half-year; day-labourers 1s. 6d. a-day in winter, and 2s. in summer.

At one time the quantity of lime used, or at least worked, in Dumfriesshire, was very great, and it is still considerable. The principal pits are those of Kilhead, Closeburn, and Barjarg; and within the last fifteen years the supply was estimated at 1,200,000 Winchester bushels, valued at L54,000. The capabilities of the pits are still great, but the demand for lime has diminished, owing to the increasing use of bone-dust, a manure which unites to a certain extent the qualities of lime and common dung. Mr Menteth of Closeburn was a great land improver, and converted bogs which were hardly worth five shillings an acre into some of the finest pasture land in the county, by the combined effects of pairing, careful selection of seed, the application of lime, and irrigation. Cattle and sheep are bought at the Falkirk trysts, and fattened during winter and the early part of spring. The latter branch of traffic is yearly extending. The indigenous breed of cattle is still the Galloway, although not always pure and unmixed. Of heavy or drove cattle, about 20,000 head are driven south annually, and their value in good years amounts to nearly L200,000. Mr Charles Stewart of Hillside, who has devoted much attention to agricultural statistics, gives the following valuable information respecting the present state (1854) of Dumfriesshire:—"In addition to drove cattle, there are also sent to other markets in the northern counties of England, Galloway heifers bred in Dumfriesshire, and West Highland cattle kept a year in the county, of both sorts about 8000, and at an average value of L8 a-head. Taking both these, the produce of the county may be about L120,000. Of fat cattle, between 2500 and 3000 are stall-fed for the butchers; about one-half of which are consumed in the county, the other sent to Liverpool—value in all about L40,000. The sheep are of three kinds—black-faced, Cheviots, and half-breds, the latter being a cross between the Leicester and the Cheviot. Rather under half the extent of the county is still occupied entirely by pure Cheviot or black-faced breeding stocks, of which five-sixths are Cheviot. The whole number of both is about 150,000. The annual sale from these are—lambs, 80,000; draft ewes about 22,000. The lower hill pastures with portions of the arable farms are occupied with Cheviot and black-faced ewes (four-fifths of the former) crossed with Leicester rams, and may amount to nearly 90,000. These produce almost but not quite one lamb for every ewe, say 85,000. On the arable farms, winter-fed nearly all on turnips, there are at least 110,000; of which in average years there may be 20,000 ewes and Highland wethers, and the remainder lambs or hogs, partly pure Cheviots and partly Leicester crosses, there being rather more of the latter. Then of the 165,000 lambs sold, one-half or rather more are fed in the county, and the other sold out of the county. Total sheep in the county, computed in November yearly, 350,000. Taking the last three years, the gross returns to the farmers would be—cattle store L120,000, fat L40,000, total L160,000. Sheep, first class, 150,000, giving an annual clear return of 11s. each, L82,500; second class, 90,000, Swine-rearing is much cultivated in Dumfriesshire and Galloway; and a large proportion of the hogs reared in the stewartry are sold in Dumfries, and cured in Annandale and Cumberland. The curing trade lasts for about three months, commencing in December and ending in February. The sales are all paid in ready money; and instances have occurred in which green pork to the amount of £6,500 has been sold before breakfast-time on a market-day. The curers have good and bad seasons; but the capital required induces caution, and it is a fact that bankruptcy is nearly unknown among the bacon traders of the district. The hams of Dumfriesshire are so much esteemed that they are frequently sold in London under the name of Westphalian. Those who farm pendicles trust mainly to their pigs when rent-day comes round; and the trade every year brings £2,000 into Johnstone. Its annual value to the district, including the curer's profit, must be very nearly £100,000 sterling.

The manufactures of the county are dressed leather, hosiery, clogs, and carpets. The cotton mill at Langholm has ceased to work, and such weavers as remain there are supplied with webs by the manufacturers of Carlisle. In Dumfries and other parts of the district the weaving population derive employment from the city of Glasgow. The hosiery trade exceeds £30,000 per annum; but that of dressed leather has much decreased. The carpet and spinning and dyeing manufactory at Crawick Mill, in the neighbourhood of Sanquhar, employs 150 persons, young and middle-aged. It consumes nearly 5000 stones of wool, and produces 70,000 yards of carpeting yearly. The wages average from £180 to £200 monthly.

Although, as we have already remarked, Dumfriesshire is mountainous, its lakes are inferior to those of Galloway, both as to number and extent. We must make an exception, however, in favour of the Castle Loch of Lochmaben. Bruce's castle stood on a promontory on the farther side of the loch; but it is so much dilapidated that such artists as sketch it contrive to hide the nakedness of bare unashamed walls by the enlivening screen of green trees. In some of the lakes a singular fish is found, known under the name of vendace, and which is supposed to be peculiar to this place, if we except, perhaps, the lake of Geneva. At the "four towns of Hightae," in the neighbourhood, King Robert granted fees to a class of persons who were known as "the king's kindly tenants." Their possessions are small, but the land is rich, and they sit at almost a nominal rent. They are a peculiar race, who live in a little world of their own, and are beginning to feel the effects of continued isolation and intermarriage among the members of their own tribe. Loch Skene, about ten miles from Moffat, is the only other lake of consequence. It is 1300 feet above the level of the sea; the scenery around is stern and savage in a high degree; and its superfluous waters, in escaping to the strath or valley below, foam and leap from the dizzying heights above, and form the fine cascade called the Gray Mare's Tail.

Considerable quantities of salmon are caught in the Nith, and in the stake-nets at Caerlaverock and Annan Water Foot. The finny tribes push into other streams, such as the Milk, the Esk, the Ewes, and the Wauchope; and in former times were speared in Moffat Water. The supply of red fish is augmented by importations from Galloway.

The lower parts of Dumfriesshire consist of different varieties of sandstone, the strata of which generally dip to the Solway. There is a considerable body of limestone, as we have already observed. Iron in different forms is also found in the strata. Marl abounds in various parts; and of freestone and whinstone there is abundance everywhere. Marble is also procured, and employed for some purposes. A little slate is likewise found. Coal in considerable quantities exists at the two extremities of the county, Sanquhar and Langholm; and, with one or two exceptions, all the pits belong to the Duke of Buccleuch. Lengthened land-carrage prevented the tacksmen from competing with the coal miners of England; and consequently the town of Dumfries and many parts of the county were supplied with fuel from Workington and Maryport; but the opening of the Glasgow and South-Western railway has completely changed the state of matters. Abundance of coals is now supplied from Kilmarnock, Cumnock, and Sanquhar. The lead mines at Wanlockhead belong to the Duke of Buccleuch, and are distant two miles from Leadhills in Lanarkshire, which belong to the Earl of Hopetoun. Both have declined greatly from the increased difficulty of working the shafts, and the poverty of the ore. For 30 years previously to 1828, each of the places mentioned produced about 700 tons of melted lead annually; the price £23 per ton, and the gross revenue £20,700. The Duke of Buccleuch now works Wanlockhead mines on his own account, and erected in 1846 a mill for separating the silver from the lead. The following are the quantities of silver and lead procured during the last six years.

| Year | Silver (oz) | Lead (tons) | |------|------------|------------| | 1848 | 4168 | 614 | | 1849 | 5307 | 797 | | 1850 | 6285 | 715 | | 1851 | 4595 | 701 | | 1852 | 3774 | 549 | | 1853 | 530 | |

During that period the price of lead has varied from £1.15 to £2.00 per ton. The number of persons employed on Wanlockhead at present (1854) amounts in all to 245. Each miner on an average may be supposed to earn at present £28 during the year. Whether we regard the comforts or the intelligence of the mining population, we shall find it equal, and even superior, to that of any former period.

The mineral waters of Moffat are well known; but the spas in other parts of the county are too obscure to require special notice. The chalybeate at Hartfell acts as a powerful tonic, and contains, of sulphate of iron 84 grains, sulphate of alumina 12, oxide of iron 15, and 5 inches of azotic gas, in a wine gallon. This spring was discovered about 100 years ago, but is too remote from the village to be of much use. The other spring, which is much more accessible, is strongest and best at the fountain-head, and probably the walk or ride (about a mile and a half) does as much good to invalids as the water. The Moffat Spa contains, nitrate of soda 36 grains, sulphurated hydrogen gas 10 cubic inches, azotic gas 4 inches, carbolic acid gas 5 inches. More than two centuries have elapsed since this spring was discovered. Many years ago baths, with a pump and reading-room, were erected by subscription in Moffat, at an expense of £2,000; an immense improvement, which has greatly increased the annual number of visitors. Annan, Lockerby, and Langholm, are all thriving, well-built towns. The scenery of the latter place is much admired, particularly the ride along the banks of the Esk to Longtown.

The county sends one member to parliament, and the united burghs of Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright, a second. The population amounted in 1841 to 72,830, and in 1851 to 78,123. The parliamentary constituency in 1853 was 2,530.