capital of the above county, is a royal burgh of considerable antiquity, although the period at which it became incorporated is not exactly known. During the border wars it was frequently stormed, and the public records were destroyed. The current belief, however, is, that it received its charter before the middle of the eleventh cen- Dumfries. bury, as a gravestone was discovered a number of years ago, bearing the date 1079, and mentioning that the individual whose ashes it covered had been conspicuous as a merchant and burgess of the town. From this time it gradually increased in importance; and in the year 1307, Edward the Second appointed the estates of Scotland to assemble on the banks of the Nith. In certain chronicles the ancient name of the town is said to have been Catinore, but this we suspect is mere fancy. It seems much more probable that, like many other places, it derived its name from its physical appearances and character. In remote times the Gaelic was spoken on both sides of the Firth of Forth; and we concur in the etymology of Mr George Chalmers, who conceives the word to be composed of dum a castle, and fries a ridge.

Dumfries, which may be regarded as the capital of the south of Scotland, is beautifully situated on the left bank of the river Nith, 35 miles below its source, and upwards of 10 above the point where its waters mingle with and are lost in the Solway. The Nith in point of size ranks fifth among the rivers of Scotland, and is navigable from Carsethorn to Glencaple quay, even for vessels of considerable burthen. In consequence of the extraordinary manner in which the tides ebb and flow in the Solway during the winter months, the river is similarly affected.

The origin of the town appears to have been owing to a strong castle, which flourished as a border fortress during the twelfth century, and frequently became an object of contention, both prior and subsequent to the times of Wallace and Bruce. Of this stronghold not a vestige remains; but the street occupying the ground on which it stood retains the name.

In raising what remains of this place of strength, the local authorities, more than a century ago, found materials for building the new church. The Gray Friars, like the castle, attracted settlers; and, as early as the thirteenth century, the old bridge was planned and built at the expense of the Lady Devorgilla, third daughter of Alan, lord of Galloway, and grandmother to John Comyn, who was slain by Robert Bruce in the above-mentioned cathedral in the beginning of the year 1305. Originally it consisted of thirteen arches, and was guarded at the middle by a gate or port, which was removed in 1769, to lessen the central pressure when the structure became frail. This bridge, which still remains, and is crossed every day by foot passengers, was certainly a wonderful erection for the time; and, accordingly, the writer of a work entitled A Journey through Scotland, published by J. Pemberton, London, in 1723, says, "I passed the river Nith from Galloway to Dumfries over a fair stone bridge of thirteen arches, the finest I saw in Britain next to London and Rochester." A right of toll was attached to the bridge, which in 1789, according to Captain Grose, yielded a yearly rental of L300, and which at the present day, a little higher up the river, produces to the town L500 sterling. The new bridge was commenced in 1793, and finished in 1795. The original contract price was L4500; but as no rock could be found at one point, the landstock on the Dumfries side was founded on piles of wood, and for this the commissioners of supply allowed an additional sum of L500.

After Bruce had committed the crime already mentioned, and commenced that career which terminated at last in the redemption of his country from a foreign yoke, he became a mark for the vengeance of Edward of England. His friends and adherents also suffered along with him. Amongst these, Sir Christopher Seaton was betrayed by a pretended friend of the name of Macnab, apprehended at the Castle of Lochore in Fifeshire, marched to Dumfries, and barbarously executed on the Gallows-Hill, a slight eminence on the north-eastern side of the town, better known by the name of the Christell Chapel. Bruce sincerely regretted his fate, and, in the words of Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, said, "It is ane pity that sa noble ane knight should die sa cruel ane dead!" And incontinent in the same place where he was standing when the tidings came to him, garred found a chapel in honour of the Virgin Mary; and, in remembrance of the said Sir Christell, founded a priest to divine service therein perpetually, and pray for the said Sir Christell; and gave to the said priest and his successors the sum of L5 sterling, to be taken of the barony of Carlaverock, for their sustentation." The ruins of the Christell Chapel were visible in the beginning of 1715; but when the Jacobite rebellion broke out in Scotland, the inhabitants of Dumfries hastily constructed a rampart, and during the operation the ruins of the old chapel disappeared, the line of fortification having passed close by their site. It is evident, from the traces of the foundation, that the building must have been very small. When Lord Scroop made an excursion in 1570 for the purpose of plunder, the chief magistrate of Dumfries, at the head of the burgesses, joined Lord Maxwell in opposing the invaders. They fought gallantly, but were at length defeated. Dumfries suffered considerably during the reigns of Charles I. and II. In 1617 it was visited by James VI. whilst returning to England. It was at this period that the incorporated trades received from James what is called the "siller gun," which was ordered to be shot for at stated periods, with the view of fostering their martial spirit, and skill in the exercises performed at the wappinshaw. This relic is still in existence, and the custom till lately was observed at the distance of seven or nine years, more as a holiday exercise than for any other purpose. The trades mustered in great strength, borrowed guns far and wide, spent three-fourths of the day in shooting, returned to an entertainment in their hall in the evening; and the "siller gun," after being won, was worn for a short period by the best marksman. This festival forms the subject of a poem, written by Mr John Mayne, and which is praised for its humour and spirit in the notes appended to the Lady of the Lake.

Almost no town in Scotland stood forward half so prominently as Dumfries did at the period of the union in 1707. On the 20th of November of the preceding year, according to Chalmers, two hundred Cameronians entered the burgh, issued a manifesto against the great pending measure, and burnt the articles at the market-cross. The last commotion of any consequence occurred in 1715, when the Viscount Kenmure hung on the heights of Tenwald, willing to do mischief, and yet timid as to the means and manner of attack. By a well-managed stratagem he was induced to depart; and this is believed to have been the last occasion on which the ancient war-cry of the town, "Loreburn," or "A Loreburn," was heard.

Dumfries is the seat of a presbytery, synod, sheriff's court, record of sasines, and seven banks, branches of the principal companies of Scotland. There are three churches in connection with the Establishment, an Episcopalian, a Catholic, and a number of other chapels supported by Dissenters.

In 1745, the Pretender and his rebel army, whilst retreating from England, paid a domiciliary visit to the town of Dumfries; and for a misdemeanor committed against some of his followers on their march southward, the town was compelled to pay a fine, which amounted altogether to L4000 sterling. In 1750, however, the crown granted to Dumfries L2800 out of a forfeited estate.

Hosiery, leather, hats, wooden shoes, and baskets, are the only manufactures worth naming in Dumfries. Cotton checks at one time were woven on speculation in considerable quantities; but the trade has declined. The stocking trade gives employment to about 300 persons, and produces annually not less than L30,000 sterling. At Kingholm Mills, the property of Messrs Scott, near Dumfries, there are spinning frames in operation, each containing 1200 spindles, which produce per frame 750 miles length of yarn daily, with the aid of only one man and four young persons. The tanning trade, as regards value, is very considerable. The extensive grazing district in the midst of which Dumfries stands produces annually large quantities of hides, notwithstanding the great number of bullocks that are driven south; and in good years dressed leather brings a return amounting to about £30,000. Wooden shoes or sabots were long peculiar to Dumfriesshire and the lower part of Galloway; but the trade is increasing. These promote greatly the health of such as are exposed to outdoor labour. Of these shoes more than £1,000 worth are annually disposed of in Dumfries alone.

In the year ending 10th June 1854, the tonnage of Dumfries stood as follows: Foreign vessels inwards 959 tons, coasting do. 6866, goods 4935, coal 3654, and lime 222; income to the commissioners of navigation £385, 5s. 4d., it having been in 1831, £870, 12s. 8½. In the same year vessels that cleared outwards paid duty on 712 tons register, and on goods 2475 tons, yielding £150, 6s. 3½. Total revenue for year, £385, 11s. 7½. Foreign vessels are charged at the rate of 6d. per ton, coasters 2½.; goods 1½. 2½., and lime and coal 1½. The revenue and tonnage have decreased greatly since the opening of the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company. The navigation of the Nith has been much improved of late years by the formation of embankments, and the deepening and straightening of the course of the river. The exports consist chiefly of grain, bark, wool, and hosiery; and the imports of coal, timber, and goods.

The infirmary was built more than 70 years ago, and the hospital or poor-house in 1753. Both are well endowed, though supported partly by subscriptions; and the former expends fully £1,100 annually on medicine and other necessary outlays. Its present capital amounts to £8,400. The infirmary, since the time it was founded, has received in the shape of donations £18,000, and the hospital £5000; and the expenditure of the latter is about £600 annually. In connection with such institutions it may be noticed that the late Dr Crichton of Friar's Carse left in 1823 upwards of £1,100,000 to his widow and certain trustees to be applied to such charitable purposes as they might think proper. With £60,000 of this money the Crichton Royal Institution for Lunatics has been erected near to Dumfries. A building for first-class patients was opened in 1889, and the Southern Counties' Institution for paupers from the shires of Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, and Wigton was opened in 1849. Paupers are supported and clothed for £17 each. Dumfries possesses an excellent academy, where Greek, Latin, French, English, mathematics, geography, drawing, &c. are taught. It has also a very handsome theatre. In 1826 a gas-work was erected in Dumfries, and has since flourished well. There is a weekly market, which is held on Wednesday, when a great deal of business is transacted.

St Michael's churchyard attracts the notice of all strangers. It is to a great extent a city of tombs, and has been frequently referred to as the Westminster of Scotland. Many of the monuments are very beautiful; and amongst these there is a sumptuous one over the ashes of the celebrated poet Burns.

The situation of Dumfries is admired by all tourists. With the exception of the point where it dips to the ocean, it is surrounded by a chain of hills, many of which are green to the top, and undulate in a very pleasing manner. In point of latitude, Dumfries is nearly a degree farther south than Edinburgh, and considerably more than a degree in climate. The chilling east winds which prevail so much on the east coast of Scotland are but little felt on the banks of the Nith; and pulmonary complaints, though not unknown, are comparatively unfrequent.

The parliamentary boundary of the burgh, which differs from the municipal, consists of part of the parish of Dumfries, containing 12,298 inhabitants, and parts of the following parishes, viz. Terregles containing 566 inhabitants, and Troqueer containing 4925 inhabitants (both in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright). Total pop. (1851) 13,165.