Home1860 Edition

KAMTSCHATKA

Volume 13 · 921 words · 1860 Edition

a large peninsula of Asia, projecting from its N.E. coast in a southern direction for about 800 miles from N. Lat. 62° to 51°, and between E. Long. 155° and 165°. It forms part of Russian Siberia, and is bounded on the N. by the country of the Tchukchi, E. by the Sea of Kamtschatka, S. by the North Pacific Ocean, and W. by the Sea of Okhotsk. From Cape Lopatka, its southern extremity, it gradually increases in breadth to the middle, where it is about 250 miles across; and N. of this its breadth averages from 80 to 150 miles. A chain of lofty and rugged mountains traverse the peninsula from N. to S. through its entire length. Many of the peaks are active volcanoes, and they are considered to form the northern extremity of a great volcanic chain continued through the Kurile and Japanese islands and the Philippines. On the eastern side the mountains approach close to the coast, which is rocky and precipitous, with numerous bold promontories and inlets. The western coast is low and sandy, with no elevations for 25 or 30 miles inland. The principal elevations, proceeding from S. to N., are Awatchinskaja, 8760 feet above the sea; Korjazkaja, 11,215; Japanowska, 9050; Kronolzka, 10,625; Kluntschewskaja, 16,512; and Schwelutschka, 10,590. The general formation of Kamtschatka is igneous; comprising porphyry, jasper, trap, granite, &c.; the W. side, however, belongs to the secondary and tertiary formations. The only river of importance is the Kamtschatka, which is said to be 300 miles in length, and to be navigable for vessels of 100 tons for 150 miles.

The climate is very severe, but is much milder than that of Eastern Siberia. Winter continues for seven or eight months in the year. Spring is the finest season, the summer being extremely disagreeable owing to the frequent rains and heavy fogs which settle on the land. The greatest heat is in July. The frost begins to set in about October, and usually continues till May. In the middle of winter the temperature averages about 14° Fahr.; but in severe frosts it sometimes falls as low as -15°, or even lower. From the severe and variable nature of the climate, and the rocky nature of the country, the vegetable productions are of little value. Forests of considerable extent occur, consisting of several species of birch, pine, poplar, and willow; but these are all stunted in their size. Shrubs are plentiful, and so are wild berries and wild garlic. In some few favoured spots the Russian settlers succeed in raising wheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, turnips, radishes, &c. The wild animals, which were formerly very abundant, have been much thinned by the hunters. They comprise bears, wolves, foxes, reindeer, mountain sheep, beavers, and otters. Wild fowl are still plentiful; but it is on fish, which abound everywhere, that the inhabitants chiefly depend for subsistence. The dogs of Kamtschatka are much valued, and are trained to perform many useful operations. The trade of the country is very limited. There is no equitable system of taxation, and the Russian governors, at such a distance from the capital, have few checks on their curiosity. The people thus labour only to supply their daily wants. Furs and dried fish are exported from Petropavlovsk; the imports are rice, flour, coffee, sugar, brandy, and whisky.

The natives of Kamtschatka consist of two tribes—the Kamtschadalas and Koriaks, who differ from each other more in mode of life than in physical conformation. They are in general of low stature, with broad shoulders, a large head, and short legs. They have scarcely any beard, their face is long and flat, eyes small and sunken, lips thin, and hair lank and black. Their features seem to identify them with the Mongolian race. They are mild and hospitable, but at the same time filthy, lazy, and sensual in the extreme. Notwithstanding the severity of the climate, they are subject to few maladies, and generally reach an advanced age.

The Kamtschadalas occupy the southern part of the peninsula to about 58° of N. Lat.; while the country N. of that is occupied by the Koriaks. The former have fixed habitations, and employ themselves in fishing and hunting. During the summer or fishing season they leave their winter residences for the places which they use for drying fish. The summer is thus occupied in providing food for the winter, in which their only employment is the chase. Their winter habitations are sunk some feet under the ground for the sake of warmth, the walls formed of trees laid over each other and plastered with clay, and the roof slanting, and covered with coarse grass or rushes. The summer house is raised to the height of 12 or 13 feet from the ground by means of posts, in order to afford them a sheltered space to dry their fish. The Koriaks are a wandering, nomadic tribe, subsisting on the produce of their numerous herds of reindeer. The whole population of the peninsula is said not to exceed 5000, of whom about one-third are Russian settlers or their descendants.

Kamtschatka was first visited, in 1649, by some Russians, who were wrecked on the coast. They lived in peace with the natives for some time, but afterwards quarrelling among themselves, were all murdered. It was not till 1696 that a body of Cossacks from Anadisk penetrated into the country; and from that time a series of hostilities were maintained against the natives till 1706, when they were completely subjected to Russia.