Home1860 Edition

RENFREWSHIRE

Volume 19 · 1,508 words · 1860 Edition

omprehends sixteen entire parishes, besides small portions of those of Beith and Dunlop in Ayrshire, and Govan in Lanarkshire. Two of the parishes, Eaglesham and Cathcart, belong to the presbytery of Glasgow; the other fourteen composed the presbytery of Paisley for a long time prior to the year 1834, when two presbyteries were formed; that of Paisley, consisting of nine of these fourteen parishes; and that of Greenock, consisting of the other five, with the addition of Cumbracs in Bute-shire, and Large in Ayrshire, both of which parishes formerly belonged to the presbytery of Irvine. In the above enumeration of parishes, those which are so quoad sacra only have not been taken into account.

About two-thirds of this county, comprehending the western and southern sides, are hilly, the medium elevation being from 500 to 600 feet. Mistylaw, on the west, which is about 1240 feet above the level of the sea, has been represented as the highest hill in the county; but it is now ascertained that a neighbouring height, called the Hill of Stalik, is entitled to that distinction, being a few feet higher. Balagleich is one of the highest hills on the south-east side, being about 1000 feet above the sea-level. The hilly district is in general kept in pasture, for which it is better adapted, by the nature of its surface, than for tillage. The cultivated land, which forms a gently-rising district, lies on the north and north-east, and in the centre of the county on both sides of the Black Cart. Of this, the greater part consists of low, detached eminences, which swell in endless variety. These being interspersed with copses, and often watered at the bottom by winding streams, present views remarkable for richness and variety. Indeed, it will be difficult to point to a more beautiful surface anywhere in Scotland. Much of this tract has a close subsoil of small stones and coarse clay, almost impenetrable to water, though there are here many flat holms of great fertility. It is only between Paisley and the Clyde that the country sinks down into a plain, forming the flat district known by the name of "the Laighlands." The length of this beautiful level tract is about 6 miles, its breadth about 3, and its area 12,000 acres. Here the soil is generally a deep, rich loam of a dark-brown colour, sometimes of the nature of what is called "carse clay;" and much of it seems to have been formed by the deposition of vegetable mould from the higher grounds. Among the hills in the S.W. there are extensive moors and mosses, the largest being that of Kilmaclom.

Like the other western counties of Scotland, Renfrewshire has a moist climate, with frequent rains; and the prevailing wind is from the south-west.

Besides the Clyde, which, as has been already mentioned, flows along the northern and western boundaries of this county, the principal rivers are the White Cart, the Black Cart, and the Gryfe. The White Cart, which rises in Lanarkshire, enters Renfrewshire from the south, and pursues a winding course, first westerly towards Paisley, through which it passes, and then northerly towards the Clyde. It is joined at Inchinnan Bridge by the Black Cart, which had previously received the waters of the Gryfe at Walkinshaw, above Barnsfield Bridge; and these united streams, which contain nine-tenths of the water of the county, fall into the Clyde about 3 miles below Paisley. By means of a short canal, which was cut to avoid the shallows at Inchinnan Bridge in 1786, the White Cart is navigable up to Paisley. Other improvements upon this river are in progress. Like some other Scottish streams, it was once famous for the pearls which were found in its bed, but these have disappeared since the beginning of the eighteenth century. The Black Cart rises from Loch Winnoch, or, as it is usually called, from an adjoining estate, Castle-Semple Loch, a lake in the south-western extremity of the county. The Gryfe rises in the west, amongst the high lands of the parish of Greenock. The only other stream deserving mention is the Kipp Water, in the west of the county, which falls into the Firth of Clyde at Innerkip. All these streams and several others of smaller size, independently of their importance to agriculture, are in almost every part of their course applied by the industrious and ingenious inhabitants to the various purposes of manufactures. A ready supply of water is secured by means of reservoirs, some of which are of the size and appearance of considerable lakes; or by enlarging the natural lakes, of which there are many. These streams and lakes contain the kinds of fish that are common in this quarter of the country.

Two important railways traverse the county. Commencing at Glasgow, they have a common line to Paisley, from which the one leads north-westwards to Greenock, and the other south-westwards towards Ayr. There are also railways from Glasgow to Neilston, and from Paisley to Renfrew, and a canal from Glasgow to Johnstone.

The minerals of Renfrewshire are of great importance, and constitute the main source of its manufactures and commerce; but we can only advert to them very generally. Coal, limestone, and sandstone are wrought at Neilston, one of the parishes of the hilly district; and both coal and lime have been found in the flat district near Renfrew. The south-eastern portion belongs to the great western coal region of Scotland; and the many mines which are wrought at Polmadie, on the north-east boundary; at Hurlet, three miles south-east from Paisley, where it has been wrought for more than three hundred years; and at Quarrelton, south-east from Johnstone, give employment to a great number of the people. Limestone abounds in various parts, and is wrought at several quarries. Ironstone, granite, pyrites, alum, &c., are also found. Excellent freestone, lying near the surface, is wrought at various places in the middle district. Greenstone, or, as it is provincially called, whinstone, exists in immense masses, along with porphyry, in the west of the county.

The number of proprietors in Renfrewshire is 2610; the amount of real property in 1857, £282,196; and the valuation of rent for 1857-8, £315,630. Among the noble-

men's and gentlemen's seats are Hawkhead, belonging to the Earl of Glasgow; Blantyre House, to Lord Blantyre; Pollok, to Sir John Maxwell; Pollok Castle, to Sir Hew C. Pollok; also Castle-Semple, Caldwell, Ballochmyle, &c. There are many remains of ancient structures, which formed the seats of powerful or respectable families. This shire was anciently covered with wood. Even now it is ornamented with many woods and plantations; and it is in general well inclosed.

As an agricultural district, this does not rank so high as some others in Scotland. Hardly more than half the surface is cultivated; but what is so, has the advantage of the best methods. The mode of farming is such as every year to leave more than a half of the arable land in grass, on which the stock chiefly kept is cows, the most part of whose milk is made into butter. There are few cheese-dairies. Out of a total acreage of 75,152, under a rotation of crops in 1857, occupied by tenants paying £10 rent and upwards, 4765 acres were in wheat, 417 in barley, 17,098 in oats, 1232 in beans, 206 in vetches, 3470 in turnips; 5729 in potatoes, 221 fallow, and 41,598 in grass and hay. In the same year the total number of horses was 3535; of cattle, 22,398; of sheep, 22,477; of swine, 1761; of all kinds of stock, 50,271.

It is by its manufactures and commerce that this county is most distinguished. Goods of silk and cotton, and muslin fabrics, are the principal articles manufactured. Cotton-mills, bleachfields, and printfields furnish employment to a large portion of the inhabitants. Paisley and its environs form the chief seat of the manufactures. At Greenock and Port-Glasgow the foreign and coasting trade of the county, and indeed a great proportion of the foreign trade of Scotland, are carried on.

According to the census of 1851, the county contained in all 128 places of worship, with 82,514 sittings. Of the former, 32 belonged to the Established Church; 29 to the Free Church; 21 to the United Presbyterians; 7 each to Independents, Baptists, and Roman Catholics; 6 to Wesleyans; 4 each to Reformed Presbyterians and Latter-Day Saints; 3 to the Evangelical Union; 2 to Episcopalians; 1 each to the Original Secession, the Unitarians, and the New Church; and 3 to isolated congregations. There were also 105 public schools, with 10,353 scholars; and 103 private ones, with 5948 scholars; besides numerous evening and Sunday schools. The total amount of public expenditure on education in Renfrewshire from 1833 to 1857 is £10,505. The county returns a member to Parliament; and the constituency in 1858 was 2702. The Parliamentary burghs of Paisley and Greenock have each one member. In 1851 the county contained 10,760 inhabited houses. Pop. (1811) 93,172; (1821) 112,175; (1831) 133,443; (1841) 155,072; (1851) 161,091.