the second city of the kingdom in respect of rank, the capital of Yorkshire, and the seat of an archbishopric, is situated upon the river Ouse (which is navigable for small vessels), and contained according to the last census 36,303 inhabitants. Before the invasion of the Romans it formed one of the chief cities of the Brigantes, the most powerful of British tribes; and it is supposed that on their subjugation by Agricola, he founded here about the year 79 the Roman city of Eboracum, which became the great "Colonia" of the Romans in Britain, the seat of imperial government, and the "Altera Roma."

During the Roman sway in Britain, many important events happened in this city, where Hadrian and Severus resided, and where the latter died; also where Constantius Chlorus died, and where, it is highly probable, his celebrated son Constantine the Great was born. From the remains which have been found, it is evident that under the Romans the city was a place of great grandeur and considerable extent. On the departure of the Roman cohorts, about 409, it became a prey to the wars which prevailed between the Picts and the Britons, and between the latter and the Saxons; and also to the invasions of the Danes; but under these vicissitudes it still maintained its distinction as one of the chief cities of the kingdom. Even soon after the Conquest, when it suffered so much, it still continued a place of considerable extent and population, as is evident from Domesday Book. From that time it has ever held a proud position in English history, as the residence of kings, the seat of parliament, and the centre of civilisation in the north of England. In early ages William of Malmesbury relates in glowing language the extent of its shipping and commerce, but from some cause it is clear the navigation of the Ouse has since much deteriorated. Now only craft of 80 or 100 tons burthen can come up to the city.

York is a corporation by prescription, but its first charter dates back to the reign of Henry II., who granted important privileges to it. Under the Municipal Reform Act it is divided into six wards, and is governed by a mayor, recorder, 12 aldermen, and 36 councilmen. The mayor has, like that of the city of London, the title of lord mayor, which was conferred by Richard II. From the time of Henry III. York has returned two members to parliament. The walls are about three miles in circumference; that is the outline, for in many places they have totally disappeared. Such parts of them as remain were repaired a few years since, and form an agreeable promenade. From the surrounding country the city has an imposing appearance, and of late great improvements have been effected in its internal appearance. A great number of old houses, some of them of timber and very picturesque, have been demolished and replaced by handsome buildings. The narrow streets, also, in many places have been widened, and in others new ones formed. One especially in the centre of the city, Parliament Street, is of considerable length, wide, well paved, and surrounded by good shops. The city is full of public buildings, some of great architectural merit. The mansion-house, erected in 1726, is a fine and capacious structure, situated in St Helen's Square. Behind it stands the Guildhall, a noble gothic hall of the fifteenth century. Handsome and commodious assize-courts were built, along with the prison, on the site of the ancient castle of York, of which little remains except the dilapidated but still majestic Clifford's Tower. The assembly and concert rooms in Blake Street are convenient and capacious structures. The theatre was first erected in 1769, by Tate Wilkinson, and much enlarged and improved in 1822. York can boast of an excellent museum, erected by the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, which contains a most valuable collection in natural history and antiquities, especially of local objects. There is likewise an excellent subscription library, well stocked with books. There are also many charitable institutions in and about the city; for instance, the County Lunatic Asylum, also the Retreat for lunatics founded by the Quakers in 1796; the County Hospital, endowed by Lady Hastings in 1749, besides many hospitals for poor persons.

York Minster is unquestionably the finest Gothic pile in the world, and is alike the boast and pride of England as well as Yorkshire. It was originally founded in 626 by Edwin, king of Northumbria, soon after his conversion by Paulinus, the first archbishop of the see of York. The present edifice was, however, built in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. In 1291 John le Romaine, then archbishop, laid the foundation of the present nave, which was completed by Archbishop Melton about forty years afterwards, who also erected the west front and two west towers. In 1361 the celebrated Archbishop Thoresby rebuilt the choir, and in 1370 the central tower was taken down and soon afterwards rebuilt. The whole length of the building (internally) is 524 feet; length of nave, 264 feet; breadth, 109 feet; length of choir, 131 feet; height of nave and choir, 99 feet; length of transept, 222 feet; height of great tower, 234 feet; height of west towers, 196 feet. A gorgeous stone screen of beautiful workmanship separates the choir from the nave, which, on the side facing the nave, is divided into fifteen compartments, in which are placed, under elaborate ornamented canopies, statues of the kings of England, from the Conqueror to Henry VI. The minster is the longest of any cathedral in England except Winchester, but beyond that particular the latter cannot vie with the former. The west front, divided into three compartments, is highly embellished with statues and ornamental devices, and has been compared to the west front of the famous cathedral of Rheims. The western towers are of a light and graceful style, and agree in tone with the front, whilst they contrast with the massive square central tower. Although the north and south sides are much plainer than the rest of the edifice, yet their very simplicity gives them a noble and imposing appearance. They are supported by buttresses, surmounted by pinnacles, and have a delicately pierced parapet. Like the west end, the east is also divided into three compartments; in the middle one is a magnificent window of painted glass. Passing to the interior, the nave is separated from the side-aisles by a range of finely clustered columns, over which is a clerestory of great beauty. The choir is fitted on the west and sides with prebendal stalls of elaborately carved oak, with canopies of tabernacle work. At the east end stands the archbishop's throne and the pulpit.

Few cathedrals have suffered so much from fire. In 1069 it was burnt down, and again in 1187, when it re- Yorkshire, maine for many years in ruins. On the 2d of February 1829, it was set on fire by Jonathan Martin, a lunatic, and the whole of the wood-work and roof of the choir were burnt. Through the negligence of a workman employed in repairing the clock, another fire broke out on the 20th May 1840, in one of the west towers, whereby the roof of the nave and a fine peal of ten bells were destroyed. On these two last conflagrations the gentry of the county subscribed most liberally towards renovating the fabric, and the late Earl of Scarborough presented a splendid organ. Since the days of Paulinus, the first archbishop, there have been eighty-five archbishops.

York, like Norwich, is filled with parish churches. At the Reformation there were forty-one parishes, and now there are twenty-two consolidated out of the former, but the livings are, with an exception or two, of small value. Many of the churches are in a most dilapidated state, but some of them are large and elegant, with lofty towers and spires. The Roman Catholics and dissenters have several chapels in York, and the former have also a nunnery.

The trade of York has for many years been very inconsiderable. There is a small manufacture of linen, and also of glass, carpets, gloves, and combs. It is, however, a large market for corn, wool, and cattle; and since the increase of railway accommodation, the trade of the place has considerably improved. But the principal source of wealth in York arises from the great number of provincial gentry who take up their abode there on account of the salubrity of the situation, and for the benefits of society, also from the number of clergymen connected with the cathedral and other churches, and gentlemen engaged in the law, who reside at York in large numbers.

(Y.J.)